_Shot_, or, as they were then called, _changeable_ silks, were fashionable in England during the sixteenth century, for when the King’s (Edward VI.) Lord of Misrule rode forth with great pageantry, among other personages there came “afor xx. of ys consell on horsbake in gownes of chanabulle lynyd with blue taffata and capes of the sam, like sage (men); then cam my lord with a gowne of gold furyd,” &c.[290] At York Cathedral, A.D. 1543, there was “a vestment of changeable silke,”[291] “besides one of changeable taffety for Good Friday.”[292] [290] Diary of Henry Machyn, ed. Nichols for the Camden Society, p. 13. [291] Fabric Rolls, p. 301. [292] Ibid. p. 311. _Marble_ silk had a weft of several colours so put together and woven as to make the whole web look like marble, stained with a variety of tints; hence it got its name. In the year 1295 St. Paul’s had “paruram de serico marmoreo”[293]--an apparel of marble silk; “tunica de quodam panno marmoreo spisso”[7]--a tunicle of a certain thick marble cloth; “tunica de diaspro marmoreo spisso”[294]--a tunicle of thick diaper marble; “casula marmorei coloris”[295]--a chasuble of marble colour. During full three centuries this marble silk found great favour among us since H. Machyn, in his very valuable and curious Diary tells his readers how “the old Qwyne of Schottes rod thrught London,” and how “then cam the Lord Tresorer with a C. gret horsse and ther cotes of marbull,”[9] &c., to meet her the 6th of November, A.D. 1551.[296] [293] Ibid. p. 320. [294] Ibid. p. 322. [295] Ibid. p. 323. [296] Pp. 11, 12. SECTION II.--EMBROIDERY. The art of working with the needle flowers, fruits, human and animal forms, or any fanciful design, upon webs woven of silk, linen, cotton, wool, hemp, besides other kinds of stuff, is so old that it reaches far into the prehistoric ages. Those patterns, after so many fashions, which we see figured upon the garments worn by men and women in Egyptian and Assyrian monuments, but especially on the burned-clay vases made and painted by the Greeks during their most archaic as well as later times, or we read about in the writings of that people, were not wrought in the loom, but done by the needle.