Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Going far down, and much below the middle ages, Purple, in all its
tones, and tints, and shades, was spoken of and looked upon as
allowable to be worn in garments only to worshipful, ennobled, or royal
personages. Whether it glowed with the brightness it seemed to have
stolen from the rose, or wore its darkest tone it could borrow from
the violet, whether it put on any one of those hundred shades to be
found between those two extremes, it mattered not; it was gazed at with
an admiring, a respectful eye. Eagerly sought out, and bought at high
price, were those textiles that showed this colour, and had been dyed
at Tyre, Antioch, Tarsus, Alexandria, Byzantium, or Naples. All these
places were at one time or another, in days of old, famous for their
looms, no less than their ability in the dyeing, especially of purple,
among the nations living on the shores of the Mediterranean; and each
of them had in its own tone a shade which distinguished it from that
of all the others. What the tint of purple was which established this
difference we cannot at this distance of time, and with our means
of knowing, justly say. Of this, however, we are perfectly aware,
that silks of purple usually bore their specific name from those
above-named cities, as we perceive while reading the old inventories
of our churches and cathedrals. Moreover, our native writers let us
know that, if not always from Greece, it was through that country
that purple textiles were brought to England. Besides speaking of a
conversation held about, beside other things, the produce of Greece in
purple silks--“Græcorum purpuris, et pannis holosericis”--Gerald Barry
gives us to understand that in his days not only were our churches
sumptuously hung with costly palls and purple silks, but that these
textiles were the work of Grecian looms--“rex (Willielmus Rufus)
ecclesiam quandam (in nova foresta) intraret quam adeo pulchram et
decentius ornatam auletis historicis, et pretiosis Græcorum palliis,
pannis holosericis et purpureis undique vestitam,” &c.[288]
Silks woven of two colours, so that one of them showed itself unmixed
and quite distinct on one side, and the second appeared equally clean
on the other--a thing sometimes now looked upon as a wonder in modern
weaving--might occasionally be met with here at the mediæval period:
Exeter Cathedral had, A.D. 1327:--“Unus pannus sericus curtus rubei
coloris interius et crocei coloris exterius.”[289]
[287] St. Paul’s, ed. Dugdale, p. 328, &c.
[288] Giraldus Cambrensis, De Instructione Principum, pp. 168-173.
[289] Oliver, p. 316.
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