Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Looking well into that very fine and invaluable piece of English
needlework, the Syon cope, No. 9182, p. 275, we find that for the human
face, all over it, the first stitches were begun in the centre of the
cheek, and worked in circular, not straight lines, into which, however,
after the further side had been made, they fell, and were so carried
on through the rest of the fleshes; in some instances, too, even all
through the figure, draperies and all. But this was done in a sort of
chain stitch, and a newly practised mechanical appliance was brought
into use. After the whole figure had thus been wrought with this kind
of chain stitch in circles and straight lines, then with a little thin
iron rod ending in a small bulb or smooth knob slightly heated, were
pressed down those middle spots in the faces that had been worked in
circular lines; as well, too, as that deep wide dimple in the throat,
especially of an aged person. By the hollows thus lastingly sunk, a
play of light and shadow is brought out, that, at a short distance,
lends to the portion so treated a look of being done in low relief.
Chain stitch, then, worked in circular lines, and relief given to parts
by hollows sunk into the faces, and other portions of the persons,
constitute the elements of the “opus Anglicum,” or embroidery after the
English manner. How the chain-stitch was worked into circles for the
faces, and straight lines for the rest of the figures, is well shown by
a wood-cut, after a portion of the Steeple Aston embroideries, given in
the Archæological Journal, t. iv. p. 285.
Though, indeed, not merely the faces and the extremities, but the dress
too of the persons figured, were sometimes wrought in chain-stitch, and
afterwards treated as we have just described, the more general practice
was to work the draperies in our so-called feather-stitch, which used
to be also employed for the grounding, but diapered after a pretty,
though simple, zig-zag design, as we find in the Syon cope.
Apart from its stitching in circles, and those hollows, there are
elements in the design for sacred art-work almost peculiar to mediæval
England. Upon the rood loft in old Westminster Abbey, stood hard by the
cross two six-winged seraphim, each with his feet upon a wheel; so,
too, in the Syon cope, as well as in English needlework on chasubles
and copes, wrought even late in the fifteenth century. When, therefore,
such angel-figures are found on embroideries, still to be seen in
foreign hands, a presumption exists that the work is of English
production.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account