Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
Thames Valley Villages, Volume 1 (of 2)
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Thames Valley (England)
The only son of Henry, first Duke of Lancaster, was drowned here, and his
sorrowing father is said never again to have resided at Kempsford. On the
north door of the church is nailed a horseshoe, in allusion, it is said,
to one cast by his horse on his departure, and immediately nailed up here
by the inhabitants. It is, indeed, often said to be the original shoe,
but that is an absurdity. A curious other horseshoe legend and observance
is to be noted at the town of Lancaster, John o’ Gaunt’s ancient palatine
seat. There, where the two principal thoroughfares of the town cross, is
“Horseshoe Corner,” so named from the horseshoe let into the roadway, and
renewed in every seven years; in memory, says tradition, of a shoe cast
there by his horse.
Kempsford church consists of a long and lofty aisleless nave, with tall
central tower. The nave is Norman, with Norman doorways and Perpendicular
windows, and very beautiful, gorgeous, and impressive.
The ancient manor-house, frequently styled “the Palace,” came at last
into the possession of the Hanger family, Earls of Coleraine, one of whom
wantonly destroyed it.
The Thames and the Thames and Severn Canal, running almost side by
side at Kempsford, now abruptly part company again, and meet only
three-and-a-half miles farther on, at Inglesham. The canal is the more
easily followed, since the windings of the Thames in those miles add
certainly another mile and a half to the distance, and are to be followed
only with extreme difficulty by canoe, or afoot through many fields.
Hannington Bridge, crossing it nearly a mile and a half below Kempsford,
is the first bridge of any importance, and is a solid, stolid modern
masonry building, eminently practical and unimaginative, serving to carry
the road from Highworth to Fairford across. The remains of an old weir on
the way give pause to the exploring canoeist at most seasons; and a small
tributary, the river Cole, hailing from Berkshire, is seen on approaching
Inglesham.
There are no churches in these surroundings more interesting than the
humble little building at Inglesham, one mile from Lechlade, in an almost
solitary situation. It is quite a rustic church, chiefly in that best
period of gothic architecture, Early English, and it is so far removed
from restoration, or even adequate care, that it is almost falling to
pieces. Damp and neglect have wrought much havoc here, and the zealous
concern of the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Buildings, by
preventing any large scheme of repair, seems not unlikely to result, at
no distant date, in the entire dissolution of the structure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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