Thames Valley Villages, Volume 2 (of 2)Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
Thames Valley Villages, Volume 2 (of 2)
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Thames Valley (England)
Henley is, of course, famed, above all else, for its Regatta, established
as an annual event since 1839, following upon an Oxford and Cambridge
boat-race here in 1837. It is now pre-eminently _the_ function of the
river season, whether we consider it from the point of view of sport or
fashion. Here every June the best oarsmanship in the world is displayed
over this course of one-and-a-quarter miles: indisputably the best for
anything up to that distance, for the regatta is now attended by the
best oarsmen of the New World as well as of the Old. The regatta is,
from a social and hospitable point of view, very much what the Derby is
among horseraces; and the house-boat parties and riverside house-parties
for the Henley Week dispense much hospitality and champagne. There is
yet another side to the regatta: it is, almost equally with Ascot and
Goodwood, recognised as an opportunity for the display of fine dresses.
The Oxfordshire bank is at such times the most exclusive, and to the
Berkshire shores are principally relegated the pushing, struggling crowds
of humbler sportsmen and sightseers. But here, where every point is
legally open to all, except where private lawns reach down to the river,
the real exclusiveness of Goodwood or Ascot is, of course, impossible.
Henley town is at such times anything but exclusive, and is thronged to
excess. In these later times of motor-cars it is also apt to be a great
deal more dusty than ever it used to be. To see Henley in Regatta Week,
and again Henley in any other week, affords an astonishing contrast; for
at all other times it is, as a town, among the dullest of the dull, and
its broad High Street a synonym for emptiness.
I do not propose in this place to enlarge further upon Henley, but to
mention Henley at all and not its famous old coaching-inn by the bridge,
the Red Lion, has never yet been done; and shall I be the first to make
the omission? No! It is a famous old inn, and of enormous size. Every
one knows it as the hostelry where Shenstone the poet, about 1750,
scratched with a diamond upon a window the celebrated stanza about “the
warmest welcome at an inn,” but that window-pane has long been lost;
and it is really doubtful if the inscription was not rather at another
Henley: i.e. Henley-in-Arden. I have fully discussed that question
elsewhere,[1] and so will not repeat it in this place.
Mr. Ashby-Sterry is quite right in his description of the Red Lion,
standing red-brickily by the bridge:
“’Tis a finely-toned, picturesque, sunshiny place,
Recalling a dozen old stories;
With a rare British, good-natured, ruddy-hued face,
Suggesting old wines and old Tories.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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