The river Esk on its way to the sea divides the town of Whitby in
two,--the west cliff covered with modern houses with foreground of
sands, the east cliff, crowned by its ruined abbey, which overlooks the
town from a height of 250 feet. The view seawards is magnificent, and
the surrounding country is varied with dark hills, sometimes wooded,
but oftener purple with heather. Looking north, the ruins face the broad
expanse of the German Ocean, and are flanked by the heather-clad moors
of Cleveland. On the east side of the river and below the abbey, the red
old-fashioned houses rise tier upon tier up the cliff, making indeed the
“haven under the hill.” The old Latin saying, “Bernard loved the valley,
and Benedict the hill,” is well exemplified by the position of this
Abbey of Streanaeshalch or “precipitous cliff.” The ruins are reached by
a climb of 199 steps from the bustling quay below, and though somewhat
scanty are of exceeding beauty and consist chiefly of Early English
work. The chancel, which is of this period, has seven bays and a
remarkably beautiful triforium. The east end consists of three stages of
lancets, the centre group of which is the tallest and most elaborate.
The north aisle of the choir is practically complete, and even retains
some of its vaulting, but all the south aisle has disappeared. The north
transept is of three bays and is architecturally the most perfect part
of the church. It has an eastern aisle, and is of the same design as the
chancel, having in the north wall the same grouping of lancets, but with
the addition of a rose window above. Only a single column of the south
transept remains. A portion of the west front (14th century) stands,
showing a central doorway and a window, evidently inserted, of
Perpendicular work, but of the nave only five bays of the north aisle
wall and a single column of the north arcade still remain--the south
side now consisting only of piles of dislodged masonry. It is possible
to trace the foundations of the cloisters and chapter-house, the former
of which occupied the whole length of the nave. In the Abbey House (to
the south of the ruins) there is said to be a portion of the former
domestic buildings--now known as the Prior’s Kitchen.
It is a matter of great regret that such a priceless example of English
architectural workmanship as this Abbey of St Hilda should be allowed
to fall away before the nation’s eyes. Being in such an exposed
position, on the very brink of a high cliff, the ruins will rapidly
decay, and we have forebodings that before the end of this 20th century
there may be very little of importance left of this building--so
exceptionally invested with national, religious and legendary interest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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