I must say that we were received with very great ceremony, for though
they were of an old-fashioned style and sadly needed freshening up, a
plentiful supply of private coaches met us at the landing steps, and
drove us along the Marina, and up through the sea-gate to the
Governor's palace, which was situated in the main street near the
centre of the town. It was quite light when we drove in through the
lofty gateway, under the great Spanish balcony of heavy ironwork
bulging out like the bows of a first-rate, and ornamented at the ends
with splendid hammered-iron roses. Once through the gateway we found
ourselves in a courtyard, round which the palace was built. At the far
end was a wide sweeping stone outside-stairway, with a heavy stone
parapet, which went almost round two sides of the court. On the post
at the bottom end of the parapet was seated a queer lion, carved out
of the post itself at some time during the Middle Ages. This stairway,
and the terrace which led from it into the principal apartments, were
strewn with rich carpets of very ancient date, but more out of repair
than any gentleman would use in England. The rooms inside, too,
reminded me more of an English nobleman's seat which was never used by
its owner, but maintained in its ancient condition as a show place;
for the silk hangings of the walls were broken or threadbare in
places, and the carpets, likewise ancient, were in the like state. And
though chandeliers of rock-crystal hung in all the state rooms, and we
saw fine old cabinets here and there, there did not seem to be a good
new piece in the whole establishment, and the servants, whose name was
legion, were as dilapidated as the hangings.
The dresses of the ladies, too, were not such as we saw at Palermo,
when the King and Queen were holding their Court there after the
flight from Naples; but, while made of most valuable brocades, they
had the appearance of being used for a lifetime on the rare occasions
on which they were required. The ball consisted largely of eating the
fine fruits and drinking the good Sicilian wines, both of which were
very welcome in a Sicilian July, after a long spell at sea. For but
few of the English officers and the Sicilian ladies were able to dance
sufficiently well together, and it seemed not to be etiquette for the
Sicilian gentlemen to be dancing while any English officers were
without partners.
The few officers who spoke the language of the country conversed with
the younger ladies, who never moved from the sides of their mothers,
except to dance; and as the music was of the poorest order, the
proceedings were sufficiently doleful. But I must say that Will, as I
afterwards found was his invariable fortune, fell upon his feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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