The following is my friend’s description of one of the actual native
ceremonies at which he was present:
“We were up in the Intamal country about four days’ hard river
travelling beyond the San Cristobal frontier. Little by little,
the isolated plantations disappeared, and soon we were deep in the
untouched jungle country where there are only native villages.
“That day I was with the advance party, and as we were making a fairly
complete cadastral survey of our route, we deviated slightly toward a
largish jungle-covered hill that would furnish us with an excellent
commanding position for triangulation.
“My native peons were carrying our little transit theodolite and we
were following a native track that led toward the hill when our party
was suddenly surrounded.
“A whistle blew in the jungle and out from the bush came semi-nude
Indians variously armed. A few had trade guns, but the bulk carried the
inevitable machete, while a minority had short bows and long quivers of
obsidian-headed arrows.
“They offered us no overt violence, but made it abundantly clear that
they resented any party attempting to scale their hill. Most of the
dialogue was in the native tongue, a debased agglutinative inflective
speech similar to Nanhatl. The leader, who wore a peculiar breastplate
of featherwork, could, however, talk Spanish comparatively fluently.
“My greatest trouble was to induce him to understand that we were not
a prospecting party and were not after gold. Talk with our men who had
been with us some months finally reassured him. A chance compliment
of mine about his feather breastplate, which was of quetzal feathers,
opened the magic door to me.
“It was astonishing to that Indian, who had probably not seen a hundred
white men, as distinct from Mexicans, in all his life, to find in me a
man who knew more about the mythological importance of the quetzal bird
than he knew himself.
“My work on the ruined cities of Yucatan and my studies of the Mittall
codices and similar work had given me a sound knowledge of the worship
of Quetzalcoatl the god of the Morning Star, to whom the wonderful
emerald-plumaged quetzal bird is sacred.
“To cut a long story short, I arranged things with the head-man so
that we could camp in his village that night. The people were kindly,
once they understood that we were not gold hunters and meant no harm,
and my friend the head-man, having introduced me to certain elders and
discussed with them my knowledge of their almost extinct faith, invited
me to be present as a participant in a religious feast to be held that
night.
“The feast was that of the Cozca cuaptli--the feast of vultures, birds
as important in the Mayan underworld as in the Egyptian ceremonies.
“Shortly after dusk I left the village with them, going alone and to
all external seeming unarmed. We made a long journey through the bush,
climbing higher all the time, and I realized that we were actually on
the sacred hill that they had forbidden us to ascend.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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