The troops return to Truxillo. Description of Truxillo. The Pizarro palace. A paltry bull-fight. March to Fuentes del Maestro. Quarters at Don Benito. Kindness of the inhabitants. Wedding at Don Benito. The bride and bridegroom described. Assemblies in the town. Dress of the ladies. Departure from Don Benito. March to Villa Mercia. Sad want of fuel. The bullock-cart. Sierra de Santa Cruz. Banditti-like shepherds. The troops march to Toledo. Warm reception given to them by the inhabitants. Situation of Toledo. Magnificence of the cathedral. Skeleton of St. Ursula. Beautiful paintings. The largest bell in Europe. Persons and dress of the ladies of Toledo. Dress of the men. Departure from Toledo. Bivouac on the banks of the Tagus. Tedious road to Aranjuez. Arrival at Aranjuez. Ravages committed by the French. The queen's palace. Gardens and groves of the place. CHAPTER XIII. Excursion to Madrid with a brother officer. The travellers lose their way. A surly Don refuses admission. They arrive at Villa Conejo. The inhabitants of the valleys are often robbers. Sinister countenances of some of the villagers. The travellers at last obtain a shelter. They enter Madrid. A troublesome Alcalde. Our host in love. Custom of separating males from females in the Spanish theatres. Riotous conduct of the audience in the pit. Blundering actors. An ill-looking prompter. Gaiety of the people of Madrid. La China and the Retiro. Palace of Godoy. Distress in Madrid. Difficulty of obtaining admission into the houses in Madrid. CHAPTER XIV. The travellers return to Aranjuez. March of the army towards Madrid. Halt at the Escurial. Situation of the Palace. Enormous magnitude of the building. The army proceeds on its march. Description of the pass of Guadarama. Sculpture in the pass. The army halts at Alba de Tormes. it moves on towards the Aripiles. Sufferings from the weather during the march. Difficulty of procuring subsistence and fire. A pig-hunt. Halt at Robledo. Arrival at Coria. Noisy belles and corpulent monks. Priest's wine. Ugliness of the females of Coria. Death of General Stewart, and Brigadier General Wilson. Description of the Belem Rangers. CHAPTER XV. March of the regiment to Monte Hermosa. Banditti in the neighbourhood. Journey to Placentia. Description of the party. Forest of Carcaboso. The author arrives at Placentia. He is quartered at the house of Francisco Barona. His host's wife and her lover. Return from Placentia. Fears of some of the travellers. Peasantry of Monte Hermosa described. Amusements of the Villagers. Inharmonious music and heavy dancing. CHAPTER XVI.