The Ainu group at the Saint Louis ExpositionStarr, Frederick
History
The Ainu group at the Saint Louis Exposition
Starr, Frederick
Ainu; Louisiana Purchase Exposition (1904 : Saint Louis, Mo.)
During our stay at Tokio, we visited the Imperial University, where
we found the Department of Anthropology well organized, with Prof.
Tsuboi at its head. It should be better housed than it is, but it
occupies two entire buildings, one of which is used for recitation
rooms, reading room and laboratory and the other as a Museum, in
which Japan and her dependencies are chiefly represented. Here we saw
extensive collections illustrating the archæology of Japan—which like
the rest of the world has had a Stone Age—and the ethnography of the
Ainu and the populations of the Loo Choo Islands, the Bonin Islands,
and Formosa. We were most interested in the Ainu collections, which
are varied and represent arts and industries, weapons, tools, dress,
ornament, etc. Were we not about to see all these in actual life
in Ainu homes, we should speak of them in detail. Probably the
largest collection of Ainu skeletal material in the world is in the
University Laboratory; it has been carefully studied and described by
a Japanese, Koganei.
When on Monday, February 15th, we were ready to start northward
things looked squally. It was reported that communication was
interrupted. Four Russian gunboats, from Vladivostock, had attacked
and sunk a merchant vessel at the Straits of Tsugaru. We were
advised to wait in Tokio until the announcement of resumption of
communication should be made. Time, however, was precious. We
determined to go on to Aomori as if nothing had occurred, and, if
we actually found no steamer about to sail, to make our way overland
to the northernmost village on the Hondo, and thence, hiring a
fishing-boat and hoisting an American flag, to cross to the nearest
point of the Island of Yezo. Our railroad journey to Aomori was a
matter of some twenty hours. We left Tokio with no snow anywhere
in sight, save on Fuji’s summit; when we looked out in the early
morning of the next day, we were in the midst of winter. Snow covered
the whole landscape, not fresh-fallen snow, but a sheet that had
already been there for weeks and months. Aomori itself is a quaint
fishing-town and port. Snow lay five or six feet deep in the middle
of the street. Shops and houses are built close together, and have
a continuous passageway or corridor before them. One may walk,
outside, in the middle of the road, on the elevated snow-way, or
inside, on the ground level, under shelter of the corridor. Here
and there, narrow ways, with steps, cut in the snow permit passage
up and down from one to the other way. The markets are interesting,
particularly the fish-markets; not only does one see there fishes of
ordinary kinds, both large and small, but flatfish, such as soles and
skates, cuttle-fishes, both whole and cut into pieces, shell-fish
in great variety, and sea-squirts or tunicates, some of brilliant
colors. Had we space, we could describe the lacquer which is made
here, the New Year offerings to the gods, the boys flying kites
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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