The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Charles V. called upon the artists of the world to come and embellish
this house, and to assist him in building the sepulchres of his father
and mother, and the kings of Spain. The chapel royal is the most
impressive mausoleum in the whole kingdom; for here, in full view, are
the tombs, and upon them the images, in marble, of Ferdinand and
Isabella, and beneath these monuments repose the ashes of those
illustrious monarchs whose names are so indissolubly linked with the
history of our own distant land. By them lie the relics also of Philip
and his wife, who was called Crazy Jane. There are no more elaborate
sepulchral monuments than these. Four statues of learned divines and
twelve apostles surround the royal tombs, as if keeping eternal guard
over the inevitable dust. The statues of the royal dead are said to be
good likenesses, and I hope they are, for these people had so much care
and trouble in life, it is certainly pleasant to see them looking so
quiet in their stone beds. Even Crazy Jane, the wife of Philip, is as
calm and peaceful, in the effigy that lies at our feet, as if she never
had been in the habit of carrying the corpse of her husband about with
her from place to place, refusing to have it buried, and insisting on
the pleasure of embracing it whenever she took a notion for so cold a
comfort.
Isabella, the fair patron of Columbus, desired to be brought here and
buried; and here she lies, one of the noblest women that ever sat upon a
throne: a wonderful contrast with the late Isabella who came from Madrid
to Granada, a few years ago, descended into the vaults, and caused mass
to be performed for the souls of the departed; which souls are quite as
well off without any masses as hers will be with many. Her visit was
made here in 1862, and Ferdinand and Isabella took possession of the
city in 1492, nearly four hundred years between the visits of the two
Isabellas; and there is as great contrast between the characters of the
two women as there is between the condition of the country under the
reign of the one and the other.
A very obliging priest led us from chapel to chapel, and pointed out to
us the several distinguishing marks of antiquity and sacredness that
make the cathedral a joy to the believer, and one of the most—in many
respects the most—sacred in Spain. He was not unmindful of a trifling
fee when we parted, and one cannot but be amused with the solemn gravity
with which this office of guide to the holies is performed by the
priests, who doubtless have the mixed motive of displaying the charms of
their sacred places, and of getting the little money that grateful
travellers leave in their hands. It is best to have their services, for
they answer a hundred questions that without them would be unanswered,
and their weary life seems to be lightened by the brief companionship of
strangers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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