The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Moscow is a city of so much historical interest, and it is so peculiar
in its architecture, plan, and people, that we have lingered longer than
perhaps has been agreeable to you. But the time was when Moscow was far
more of a city than it is now. Two hundred and thirty years ago (it is
written in history), Moscow had two thousand churches; but the
statements of the former population of this city are so astounding as to
be scarcely credible. In 1600 the plague made such ravages here that
127,000 persons were dead in the streets at one time, and 500,000 died
in the city. All of these stories, including the number of the churches,
must be greatly exaggerated, and yet they are some index to the former
extent and power of this splendid capital. But all this greatness must
have been when the people were only a little removed from barbarism. Dr.
Collins, physician to the Czar, says in 1670, “the custom of tying up
wives by the hair of the head and flogging them, _begins to be left
off_.” It was certainly time, though it was two hundred years ago. No
traces of that ancient custom remain. The doves that inhabit the
streets, are held to be sacred birds, emblems of the Holy Spirit, and
more of the spirit of love, than would be indicated by such rough
treatment of wives, may be counted upon as prevailing within the houses
where these peaceful birds are cherished. In no country that I have been
in, is there more _kissing_ done in public. At the railroad stations and
in the market places, when a party of friends meet, they rush into each
other’s embrace, and all kiss; the men the men, the women the women, and
the men and women kiss each other. These are the peasants. I could not
say that it is common among the more cultivated people.
Our host, M. Billot, sent us to the station with extra style; his wife
was going into the country to see her children at school, and in her
private carriage we were to ride to the depot with her, as a special
mark of attention. During our stay in Moscow the family had done every
thing in their power to make the visit agreeable, and it was crowned
with this last act of attention, an escort to the station when we took
our leave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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