The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of EuropePrime, Samuel Irenæus
History
The Alhambra and the Kremlin: The South and the North of Europe
Prime, Samuel Irenæus
Europe -- Description and travel
Two or three hundred horses stood in the stables; and the grooms are
only too happy, for a consideration to be paid at every door, to show
these pampered and famous steeds. Each one of them has a name, in large
letters, over his head, and on his blanket. Spain has some celebrated
breeds of horses, but, like every thing else in Spain, they are run out,
and the stock is only kept up by importation. It is so even with the
_Merino_ sheep, which belongs to Spain, but would have been extinct ere
this, if it had not been perpetuated and improved abroad. You may see
five hundred finer horses any pleasant afternoon in the Central Park, in
New York, than any one of these pet horses of royalty. But you will
never see, I hope, such a wealth and folly of equipage as the hundred
carriages, and more sets of harness, and plumes, and liveries, and
coachmen’s hats, and velvet saddles, and embroidered hammer-cloths,
which fill long apartments, and are shown together with the gilded
chairs of state in which the king or queen is borne by hand in
processions, and the chariot on which the royal personage is enthroned,
with a canopy overhead, trumpeters below, and herald angels above, for
the coronation parade. The carriages used by successive monarchs are
here preserved in long lines of antiquated grandeur, even to the one in
which Crazy Jane, the widow, carried about with her the corpse of her
handsome husband, Philip the First. Queer woman that she was, jealous to
insanity, she would not let her husband be buried while she lived; and
now she lies by his side, down here in Granada, in the cathedral, and
her marble effigy gives her an expression so gentle and loving, you
would not believe she was ever the victim of the fiercest and meanest
passion that makes hell of a woman’s heart.
I have been taking you with me through the palace and armory and royal
stables, to give you a type of Spain. The poorest of all the
governments, compared with its population and resources, it has these
contrasts of wealth and poverty that mark its want of judgment,
principle, and power. In the stables is invested a capital of more than
half a million of dollars! This prodigality is royal, but also absurd.
The people see it, and the world has gone by the age, when gilt
trappings and gorgeous pageants struck the multitudes dumb with the
reverence of royal glory.
The city of Madrid is well built, and has the appearance of a modern
French town. Indeed, it is more French than Spanish in its out-of-door
look, and the French language is very largely spoken in the shops and
private families of culture. The intercourse now so frequent and ready
with France by means of the railway and telegraph, and the abolition of
all passport regulations and annoyances, have given the Spanish capital
a start, and it will undoubtedly make rapid advancement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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