Produced by Anita Hammond, Wayne Hammond and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) [Illustration: HOME UNIVERSITY LIBRARY OF MODERN KNOWLEDGE _Editors_: HERBERT FISHER, M.A., F.B.A., LL.D. PROF. GILBERT MURRAY, D.LITT., LL.D., F.B.A. PROF. J. ARTHUR THOMSON, M.A., LL.D. PROF. WILLIAM T. BREWSTER, M.A. (Columbia University, U.S.A.) NEW YORK HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY] [Illustration: THE ALPS BY ARNOLD LUNN LONDON WILLIAMS AND NORGATE] _First printed July 1914_ PREFACE For the early chapters of this book I have consulted, amongst other authorities, the books mentioned in the bibliography on pp. 251-254. It would, however, be ungracious if I failed to acknowledge my indebtedness to that most readable of historians, Mr. Gribble, and to his books, _The Early Mountaineers_ (Fisher Unwin) and _The Story of Alpine Climbing_ (Nelson). Mr. Gribble and his publisher, Mr. Unwin, have kindly allowed me to quote passages translated from the works of the pioneers. Two friends, experts in the practice and history of mountaineering, have read the proofs and helped me with numerous suggestions. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I THE MEDIÆVAL ATTITUDE 9 II THE PIONEERS 22 III THE OPENING UP OF THE ALPS 44 IV THE STORY OF MONT BLANC 60 V MONTE ROSA AND THE BÜNDNER OBERLAND 82 VI TIROL AND THE OBERLAND 92 VII THE COMING OF THE ENGLISH 111 VIII THE STORY OF THE MATTERHORN 147 IX MODERN MOUNTAINEERING 185 X THE ALPS IN LITERATURE 208 BIBLIOGRAPHY 251 INDEX 254 _Volumes bearing upon the subject, already published in the library, are_-- 7. Modern Geography. By Dr. Marion Newbigin. (_Illustrated._) 36. Climate and Weather. By Prof. H. N. Dickson. (_Illustrated._) 88. The Growth of Europe. By Prof. Grenville Cole. (_Illustrated._) THE ALPS CHAPTER I THE MEDIÆVAL ATTITUDE