The early mountaineers entered into a literary field that was almost
unexplored. They could write of their hill journeys with the assurance
of men branching out into unknown byways. They could linger on the
commonplaces of hill travel, and praise the freedom of the hills with
the air of men enunciating a paradox. To glorify rough fare, simple
quarters, a bed of hay, a drink quaffed from the mountain stream, must
have afforded Gesner the same intellectual pleasure that Mr. Chesterton
derives from the praise of Battersea and Beer. And this joy in
emotions which had yet to be considered trite lingers on even into the
more sedate pages of _Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_. The contributors
to those classic volumes were rather frightened of letting themselves
go; but here and there one lights on some spontaneous expression of
delight in the things that are the very flesh and blood of our Alpine
experience--the bivouac beneath the stars, the silent approach of dawn,
the freemasonry of the rope, the triumph of the virgin summit. “Times
have changed since then,” wrote Donald Robertson in a recent issue of
_The Alpine Journal_--
“Times have changed since then, and with them Alpine literature.
Mountaineering has become a science, and, as in other sciences,
the professor has grown impatient of the average intelligence,
and evolved his own tongue. To write for the outside public is
to incur the odium of ‘popular science,’ a form of literature
fascinating to me, but anathema to all right-minded men. Those best
qualified to speak will only address themselves to those qualified
to listen, and therefore only in the jargon of their craft. But
the hall-mark of technical writing is the assumption of common
knowledge. What all readers know for themselves, it is needless and
even impertinent to state. Hence, in the climbing stories written
for the elect, the features common to all climbs must either be
dismissed with a brief reference, or lightly treated as things only
interesting in so far as they find novel expression.”
Those who worship Clio the muse will try to preserve the marriage of
history and literature, but those whose only claim to scholarship is
their power to collate facts by diligent research, those who have not
the necessary ability to weave these facts into a vital pattern, will
always protest their devotion to what is humorously dubbed scientific
history. So in the Alpine world, which has its own academic traditions
and its own mandarins, you will find that those who cannot translate
emotions (which it is to be hoped they share) into language which
anybody could understand are rather apt to explain their discreet
silence, by the possession of a delicate reserve that forbids them to
emulate the fine writing of a Ruskin or the purple patches of Meredith.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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