Now, it should be possible to discriminate between those who endeavour
to clothe a fine emotion in worthy language, and those who start with
the intention of writing finely, and look round for a fine emotion
to serve as the necessary peg. Sincerity is the touchstone that
discriminates the fine writing that is good, and the fine writing
that is damnable. The emotions that are the essence of mountaineering
deserve something better than the genteel peroration of the average
climbing book. Alpine literature is a trifle deficient in fine frenzy.
The Mid-Victorian pose of the bluff, downright Briton, whose surging
flood of emotions is concealed beneath an affectation of cynicism, is
apt to be tedious, and one wonders whether emotions so consistently and
so successfully suppressed really existed within those stolid bosoms.
A great deal of Alpine literature appeals, and rightly appeals, only
to the expert. Such contributions are not intended as descriptive
literature. They may, as the record of research into the early records
of mountaineering and mountains, supply a much-needed link in the
history of the craft. As the record of new exploration, they are sure
to interest the expert, while their exact description of routes and
times will serve as the material for future climbers’ guides. But
this is not the whole of Alpine literature, and the danger is that
those who dare not attempt the subjective aspects of mountaineering
should frighten off those who have the necessary ability by a tedious
repetition of the phrase “fine writing,” that facile refuge of the
Philistine. The conventional Alpine article is a dreary affair. Its
humour is antique, and consists for the most part in jokes about fleas
and porters, and in the substitution of long phrases for simple ones.
Its satire is even thinner. The root assumption that the Alpine climber
is a superior person, and that social status varies with the height
above sea level, recurs with monotonous regularity. The joke about
the tripper is as old as the Flood, and the instinct that resents his
disturbing presence is not quite the hall-mark of the æsthetic soul
that some folk seem to think. It is as old as the primitive man who
espied a desirable glade, and lay in wait for the first tourist with
a club. “My friends tell me,” writes a well-known veteran, “that I am
singular in this strange desire to avoid meeting the never-ceasing
stream of tourists, and I am beginning to believe that they are right,
and that I am differently constituted from other people.” The author of
this trite confession has only to study travel literature in general
and Alpine literature in particular to discover that quite commonplace
folk can misquote the remark about the madding crowd, and that even
members of the lower middle class have been known to put the sentiment
into practice. A sense of humour and a sense for solitude are two
things which their true possessors are chary of mentioning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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