Tyndall, Whymper’s great rival, had literary talent as well as
scientific genius, but his Alpine books, though they contain fine
passages, have not the personality that made _Scrambles in the Alps_ a
classic, nor the genius for descriptive writing that we admire in _The
Playground of Europe_. Of A. W. Moore’s work and of Mummery’s great
classic we have already spoken. Mummery, like Whymper, could translate
into words the rollicking adventure of mountaineering, and though he
never touches Leslie Stephen’s level, some of his descriptions of
mountain scenery have a distinct fascination.
A few other great Alpine books have appeared between _Peaks, Pastures,
and Glaciers_ and the recent work _Peaks and Pleasant Pastures_. Mr.
Douglas Freshfield and Sir Martin Conway are both famous explorers
of the greater ranges beyond Europe, and their talent for mountain
description must have inspired many a climber to leave the well-trodden
Alpine routes for the unknown snows of the Himalayas. Mr. Freshfield’s
Caucasian classic opens with a short poem that we should like to
have quoted, and includes one of the great stories on mountain
literature--the search for Donkin and Fox. Sir Martin Conway brings to
his work the eye of a trained Art critic, and the gift for analysing
beauty, not only in pictures, but in Alpine scenery. He is an artist in
colour and in words.
Contrary to accepted views, we are inclined to believe that Alpine
literature shows signs of a Renaissance. Those who hold that the
subject-matter is exhausted, seem to base their belief on the fact that
every virgin peak in the Alps has been climbed, and that the literature
of exploration should, therefore, die a natural death. This belief
argues a lack of proportion. Because a certain number of climbers have
marched up and down the peaks of a certain range, it does not follow
that those mountains no longer afford emotions capable of literary
expression. The very reverse is the case. It is perilously easy to
attach supreme importance to the sporting side of our craft. Mountain
literature is too often tedious, because it concentrates on objective
facts. When all the great mountains were unclimbed, those who wrote of
them could not burden their pages with tiresome details of routes and
times. When every mountain has been climbed by every conceivable route,
the material at the disposal of the objective writer is fortunately
exhausted. There are few great Alpine routes that remain unexplored.
There are a thousand byways in the psychology of mountaineering that
have never been touched, and an excellent book might have been written
on this subject alone. Every mountaineer brings to the mountains the
tribute of a new worshipper with his own different emotions. “Obtain an
account of the same expedition from three points on the same rope, and
you will see how different. Therefore, there is room in our generation
for a new _Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_ by the best pens in the Club
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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