“You are in the centre of a whole district of desolation,
suggesting a landscape from Greenland, or an imaginary picture
of England in the glacial epoch, with shores yet unvisited by
the irrepressible Gulf Stream. The charm of such views--little
as they are generally appreciated by professed admirers of the
picturesque--is to my taste unique, though not easily explained
to unbelievers. They have a certain soothing influence like slow
and stately music, or one of the strange opium dreams described
by De Quincey. If his journey in the mail-coach could have led
him through an Alpine pass instead of the quiet Cumberland hills,
he would have seen visions still more poetical than that of the
minister in the ‘dream fugue.’ Unable as I am to bend his bow, I
can only say that there is something almost unearthly in the sight
of enormous spaces of hill and plain, apparently unsubstantial as a
mountain mist, glimmering away to the indistinct horizon, and as it
were spell-bound by an absolute and eternal silence. The sentiment
may be very different when a storm is raging and nothing is visible
but the black ribs of the mountains glaring at you through rents in
the clouds; but on that perfect day on the top of the Schreckhorn,
where not a wreath of vapour was to be seen under the Whole vast
canopy of the sky, a delicious lazy sense of calm repose was the
appropriate frame of mind. One felt as if some immortal being, with
no particular duties upon his hands, might be calmly sitting upon
those desolate rocks and watching the little shadowy wrinkles of
the plain, that were really mountain ranges, rise and fall through
slow geological epochs.”
Whymper never touches this note even in the best of many good mountain
passages. His forte was rather the romance of Alpine adventure than the
subtler art of reproducing Alpine scenery. But in his own line he is
without a master. His style, of course, was not so uniformly good as
Stephen’s. He had terrible lapses. He spoils his greatest chapter by a
most uncalled-for anti-climax. He had a weakness for banal quotations
from third-rate translations of the classics. But, though these lapses
are irritating, there is no book like the famous _Scrambles_, and there
is certainly no book which has sent more new climbers to the Alps.
Whymper was fortunate, for he had as his material the finest story
in Alpine history. Certainly, he did not waste his chances. The book
has the genuine ring of Alpine romance. Its pages are full of those
contrasts that are the stuff of our mountain quest, the tragic irony
that a Greek mind would have appreciated. The closing scenes in the
great drama of the Matterhorn move to their appointed climax with the
dignity of some of the most majestic chapters in the Old Testament. Of
their kind, they are unique in the literature of exploration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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