Must we assume that danger blinded them to the beauty of the Alps? The
mountains themselves have not changed. The modern mountaineer sees,
from the windows of the Berne express, a picture whose colours have not
faded in the march of Time. The bar of silver that thrusts itself above
the distant foothills, as the train swings out of the wooded fortress
of the Jura, casts the same challenge across the long shadows of the
uplands. The peaks are a little older, but the vision that lights the
world for us shone with the same steadfast radiance across the plains
of long ago. Must we believe that our adventurous forefathers could
find nothing but fear in the snows of the great divide? Dangers which
have not yet vanished menaced their journey, but the white gleam of
the distant snows was no less beautiful in the days when it shone as a
beacon light to guide the adventurous through the great barrier down
the warmth of Italian lowlands. An age which could face the great
adventure of the Crusades for an idea, or more often for the sheer
lust of romantic wandering, was not an age easily daunted by peril and
discomfort. May we not hope that many a mute, inglorious mountain-lover
lifted his eyes across the fields and rivers near Basle or Constance,
and found some hint of elusive beauty in the vision that still remains
a mystery, even for those who have explored the once trackless snows?
Those who have tried to discover the mediæval attitude have too often
merely generalised from detached expressions of horror. Passages of
praise have been treated as exceptional. The Monk Bremble and the
Bishop Berkeley have had their say, unchallenged by equally good
evidence for the defence. Let us remember that plenty of modern
travellers might show an equally pronounced distaste for mountains.
For the defence, we might quote the words of an old traveller borrowed
in Coryat’s _Crudities_, a book which appeared in 1611: “What, I pray
you, is more pleasant, more delectable, and more acceptable unto a man
than to behold the height of hilles, as it were the very Atlantes of
heauen? to admire Hercules his pillers? to see the mountaines Taurus
and Caucasus? to view the hill Olympus, the seat of Jupiter? to pass
over the Alpes that were broken by Annibals Vinegar? to climb up the
Apennine promontory of Italy? from the hill Ida to behold the rising of
the Sunne before the Sunne appears? to visit Parnassus and Helicon, the
most celebrated seates of the Muses? Neither indeed is there any hill
or hillocke, which doth not containe in it the most sweete memory of
worthy matters.”
There is the genuine ring about this. It is the modern spirit without
the modern affectations. Nor is this case exceptional. In the following
chapter we shall sketch the story of the early Alpine explorers, and we
shall quote many passages instinct with the real love for the hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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