There were some remarkable men in this early group of English
mountaineers. Of John Ball and Albert Smith, we have already spoken.
Perhaps the most distinguished mountaineer from the standpoint of the
outside world was John Tyndall. Tyndall was not only a great scientist,
and one of the foremost investigators of the theory of glacier motion,
he was also a fine mountaineer. His finest achievement was the first
ascent of the Weishorn; and he also played a great part in the long
struggle for the blue ribbon of the Alps--the Matterhorn. His book,
_Hours of Exercise in the Alps_, makes good reading when once one has
resigned oneself to the use of somewhat pedantic terms for quite simple
operations. Somewhere or other--I quote from memory--a guide’s legs are
referred to as monstrous levers that projected his body through space
with enormous velocity! Tyndall, by the way, chose to take offence at
some light-hearted banter which Leslie Stephen aimed at the scientific
mountaineers. The passage occurs in Stephen’s chapter on the Rothhorn.
“‘And what philosophic observations did you make?’ will be the inquiry
of one of those fanatics who by a process of reasoning to me utterly
inscrutable have somehow irrevocably associated Alpine travelling with
science. To them, I answer, that the temperature was approximately (I
had no thermometer) 212 degrees Fahrenheit below freezing point. As for
ozone, if any existed in the atmosphere, it was a greater fool than I
take it for.” This flippancy caused a temporary breach between Stephen
and Tyndall which was, however, eventually healed.
Leslie Stephen is, perhaps, best known as a writer on ethics, though
his numerous works of literary criticism contain much that is brilliant
and little that is unsound. It has been said that the popularity of the
word “Agnostic” is due less to Huxley, who invented it, than to Leslie
Stephen who popularised it in his well known _Agnostic’s Apology_, an
important landmark in the history of English Rationalism. The present
writer has read almost every line that Stephen wrote, and yet feels
that it is only in _The Playground of Europe_ that he really let
himself go. Though Stephen had a brilliant record as a mountaineer,
it is this book that is his best claim to the gratitude and honour of
climbers. Stephen was a fine mountaineer, as well as a distinguished
writer. He was the first to climb the Shreckhorn, Zinal Rothhorn,
Bietschhorn, Blüemlisalp, Rimphischorn, Disgrazia, and Mont Malet.
He had the true mountaineering instinct, which is always stirred by
the sight of an uncrossed pass; and that great wall of rock and ice
that shadows the Wengern Alp always suggests Stephen, for it falls
in two places to depressions which he was the first to cross, passes
immortalised in the chapters dealing with “The Jungfraujoch” and “The
Eigerjoch.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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