In trying to form a just estimate of our debt to the early English
pioneers, we have to avoid two extremes. We must remember the parable
of the dwarf standing on the giant’s shoulders. It ill becomes those
who owe Climbers’ Guides, and to some extent good maps, to the labours
of the pioneers to discount their achievements. But the other extreme
is also a danger. We need not pretend that every man who climbed a
virgin peak in the days when nearly every big peak was virgin was
necessarily a fine mountaineer. All praise is due to the earliest
explorers, men like Balmat, Joseph Beck, Bourrit, De Saussure, and the
Meyers, for in those days the country above the snow-line was not only
unknown, it was full of imagined terrors. These men did a magnificent
work in robbing the High Alps of their chief defence--superstition. But
in the late ’fifties and early ’sixties this atmosphere had largely
vanished. Mr. X came to the A valley, and discovered that the B, C, or
D horn had not been climbed. The B, C, and D horn were average peaks
with a certain amount of straightforward snow and ice work, and a
certain amount of straightforward rock work. Mr. X enjoys a fortnight
of good weather, and the services of two good guides. He does what any
man with like opportunities would accomplish, what an undergraduate
fresh to the Alps could accomplish to-day if these peaks had been
obligingly left virgin for his disposal. Many of the pioneers with a
long list of virgin peaks to their credit would have made a poor show
if they had been asked to lead one of the easy buttresses of Tryfan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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