Rock-climbing as a fine art was really undreamt of till long after the
Matterhorn had been conquered. The layman is apt to conceive all Alpine
climbs as a succession of dizzy precipices. To a man brought up on
Alpine classics, there are few things more disappointing than the ease
of his first big peak. The rock work on the average Oberland or Zermat
peaks by the ordinary route is simple, straightforward scrambling up
slopes whose average inclination is nearer thirty than sixty degrees.
It is the sort of thing that the ordinary man can do by the light of
Nature. Rock-climbing, in the sense in which the Dolomite or lake
climber uses the term, is an art which calls for high qualities of
nerve and physique. Such rock climbing was almost unknown till some
time after the close of this period. No modern cragsman would consider
the Matterhorn, even if robbed of its fixed ropes, as anything but a
straightforward piece of interesting rock work, unless he was unlucky
enough to find it in bad condition. All this we may frankly admit.
Mountaineering as an art was only in its infancy when the Matterhorn
was climbed. And yet the Englishmen whom we have mentioned in this
chapter did more for mountaineering than any of their successors or
predecessors. Bourrit, De Saussure, Beck, Placidus à Spescha, and the
other pioneers of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century,
deserve the greatest credit. But their spirited example gave no general
impetus to the sport. They were single-handed mountaineers; and somehow
they never managed to fire the world with their own enthusiasm. The
Englishmen arrived late on the scene. The great giants of more than
one district had been climbed. And yet mountaineering was still the
pursuit of a few isolated men who knew little or nothing of their
brother climbers, who came and struggled and passed away uncheered by
the inspiring freemasonry of a band of workers aiming at the same end.
It was left to the English to transform mountaineering into a popular
sport. Judged even by modern standards some of these men were fine
mountaineers, none the less independent because the fashion of the day
decreed that guides should be taken on difficult expeditions. But even
those who owed the greater part of their success to their guides were
inspired by the same enthusiasm which, unlike the lonely watchfires of
the earlier pioneers, kindled a general conflagration.
CHAPTER VIII
THE STORY OF THE MATTERHORN
The history of mountaineering contains nothing more dramatic than the
epic of the Matterhorn. There is no mountain which appeals so readily
to the imagination. Its unique form has drawn poetic rhapsodies from
the most prosaic. “Men,” says Mr. Whymper, “who ordinarily spoke or
wrote like rational beings when they came under its power seemed to
quit their senses, and ranted, and rhapsodied, losing for a time
all common forms of speech. Even the sober De Saussure was moved to
enthusiasm.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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