Those who have a sense for the dramatic unities will feel that, for
once in a way, Life lived up to the conventions of Art, and that even
a great dramatist could scarcely have bettered the materials afforded
by the history of the Matterhorn. As the story unfolds itself one can
scarcely help attributing some fatal personality to the inanimate
cliffs. In the Italian valley of Breuil, the Becca, as the Matterhorn
used to be called, was for centuries the embodiment of supernatural
terror. Mothers would frighten their children by threats that the wild
man of the Becca would carry them away. And if the children asked how
the Matterhorn was born, they would reply that in bygone years there
dwelt a giant in Aosta named Gargantua, who was once seized with a
longing for the country beyond the range of peaks that divide Italy
from Switzerland. Now, in those far off times, the mountains of the
great barrier formed one uniform ridge instead of (as now) a series of
peaks. The giant strode over this range with one step. As he stood with
one foot in Switzerland and the other in Italy, the surrounding rocks
fell away, and the pyramid of cliffs caught between his legs alone
remained. And thus was the Matterhorn formed. There were many such
legends; the reader may find them in Whymper and Guido Rey. They were
enough to daunt all but the boldest.
[Illustration: II.--MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH.
The left-hand ridge is the North-east ridge. The points N.E., S, A, B,
and T are the same as the corresponding points in I. The North-east
ridge, which appears extremely steep, in I., is here seen in profile.]
The drama of the Matterhorn opens appropriately enough with the three
men who first showed a contempt for the superstitions that surrounded
the Becca. The story of that first attempt is told in Guido Rey’s
excellent monograph on the Matterhorn, a monograph which has been
translated by Mr. Eaton into English as spirited as the original
Italian. This opening bout with the Becca took place in 1858. Three
natives of Breuil, the little Italian valley at the foot of the
Matterhorn, met before dawn at the châlet of Avouil. Of these, Jean
Jacques Carrel was in command. He was a mighty hunter, and a fine
mountaineer. The second, Jean Antoine Carrel, “il Bersaglier,” was
destined to play a leading part in the conflict that was to close seven
years later. Jean Antoine was something more than a great guide. He
was a ragged, independent mountaineer, difficult to control, a great
leader, but a poor follower. He was an old soldier, and had fought at
Novara. The third of these young climbers was Aimé Gorret, a young boy
of twenty destined for the Church. His solitary rambles among the hills
had filled him with a passionate worship of the Matterhorn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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