Without proper provisions or gear, these three light-hearted knights
set forth gaily on their quest. They mistook the way; and, reaching
a spot that pleased them, they wasted hours in hurling rocks down a
cliff--a fascinating pursuit. When they reached the point now known as
the Tête du Lion (12,215 feet) they contemplated the Matterhorn which
rose definitely beyond an intervening gap. They looked at their great
foe with quiet assurance. The Becca would not run away. Nobody else was
likely to try a throw with the local giant. One day they would come
back and settle the issue. There was no immediate hurry.
In 1860 a daring attempt was made by Messrs. Alfred, Charles, and
Sanbach Parker of Liverpool. These bold climbers dispensed with guides,
and had the wisdom to attack the east face that rises above Zermat. All
the other early explorers attacked the Italian ridge; and, as will be
seen, the first serious assault on the eastern face succeeded. Lack of
time prevented the Parkers from reaching a greater height than 12,000
feet; nor were they more successful in the following year, but they had
made a gallant attempt, for which they deserve credit. In 1860 another
party had assailed the mountain from Italy, and reached a height of
about 13,000 feet. The party consisted of Vaughan Hawkins and Prof.
Tyndall, whom he had invited to join the party, with the guides J. J.
Carrel and Bennen.
In 1861 Edward Whymper, who had opened his Alpine career in the
previous year, returned to the Alps determined to conquer two virgin
summits of the Alps, the Matterhorn and the Weishorn. On arriving at
Chatillon, he learned that the Weishorn had been climbed by Tyndall,
and that Tyndall was at Breuil intending to add the Matterhorn to his
conquests. Whymper determined to anticipate him. He arrived at Breuil
on August 28, with an Oberland guide, and inquired for the best man
in the valley. The knowing ones with a voice recommended Jean Antoine
Carrel, a member of the first party to set foot on the Matterhorn. “We
sought, of course, for Carrel, and found him a well-made, resolute
looking fellow, with a certain defiant air which was rather taking.
Yes, he would go. Twenty francs a day, whatever the result, was his
price. I assented. But I must take his comrade. As he said this, an
evil countenance came forth out of the darkness, and proclaimed itself
the comrade. I demurred, and negotiations were broken off.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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