During the three years that followed, Whymper made no less than six
attempts to climb the Matterhorn. On one occasion he climbed alone
and unaided higher than any of his predecessors. Without guides or
companions, he reached a height of 13,500 feet. There is little to be
said for solitary climbing, but this feat stands out as one of the
boldest achievements of the period. The critics of solitary scrambling
need, however, look no further than its sequel for their moral. In
attempting to negotiate a corner on the Tête du Lion, Whymper slipped
and fell. He shot down an ice slope, slid and bounded through a
vertical height of about 200 feet, and was eventually thrown against
the side of a gully where it narrowed. Another ten feet would have
taken him in one terrific bound of 800 feet on to the glacier below.
The blood was pulsing out of numerous cuts. He plastered up the wounds
in his head with a lump of snow before scrambling up into a place of
safety, where he promptly fainted away. He managed, however, to reach
Breuil without further adventure. Within a week he had returned to the
attack.
He made two further attempts that year which failed for various
reasons; but he had the satisfaction of seeing Tyndall fail when
success seemed assured. Tyndall had brought with him the great Swiss
guide Bennen, and a Valaisian guide named Walter Anton. He engaged
Jean Antoine and Cæsar Carrel. They proposed to attack the mountain
by the Italian ridge. Next morning, somebody ran in to tell Whymper
that a flag had been seen on the summit. This proved a false alarm.
Whymper waited through the long day to greet the party on their return.
“I could not bring myself to leave, but lingered about as a foolish
lover hovers round the object of his affections even after he has been
rejected. The sun had set before the men were discerned coming over the
pastures. There was no spring in their steps--they, too, were defeated.”
Prof. Tyndall told Whymper that he had arrived “within a stone’s-throw
of the summit”--the mountain is 14,800 feet high, 14,600 feet had been
climbed. “He greatly deceived himself,” said Whymper, “for the point
which he reached is no less than 800 feet below the summit. The failure
was due to the fact that the Carrels had been engaged in a subordinate
capacity.” When they were appealed to for their opinion, they replied:
“We are porters, ask your guides.” Carrel always determined that the
Matterhorn should be climbed from Italy, and that the leader of the
climb should be an Italian. Bennen was a Swiss and Carrel had been
engaged as a second guide. Tyndall and Whymper found it necessary to
champion their respective guides, Carrel and Bennen; and a more or less
heated controversy was carried on in the pages of _The Alpine Journal_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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