At Breuil, they tried to get another man to accompany them but without
success. The men they approached either would not go or asked a
prohibitive price. “This, it may be said once and for all, was the
reason why so many futile attempts were made on the Matterhorn. One
guide after another was brought up to the mountain and patted on the
back, but all declined the business. The men who went had no heart
in the matter, and took the first opportunity to turn back. For they
were, with the exception of the man to whom reference will be made [J.
A. Carrel] universally impressed with the belief that the summit was
entirely inaccessible.”
Whymper and his guide bivouacked in a cowshed; and as night approached
they saw J. A. Carrel and his companion stealing up the hillside.
Whymper asked them if they had repented, and would join his party.
They replied that they had contemplated an independent assault. “Oh,
then, it is not necessary to have more than three.” “Not for us.” “I
admired their pluck and had a strong inclination to engage the pair,
but finally decided against it. The companion turned out to be J. J.
Carrel. Both were bold mountaineers; but Jean Antoine was incomparably
the better of the two, and was the finest rock climber I have ever
seen. He was the only man who persistently refused to accept defeat,
and who continued to believe, in spite of all discouragements, that the
great mountain was not inaccessible, and that it could be ascended
from the side of his native valley.”
Carrel was something more than a great guide. He remained a soldier
long after he had laid down his sword. He was, above all, an Italian,
determined to climb the Matterhorn by the great Italian ridge, to climb
it for the honour of Italy, and for the honour of his native valley.
The two great moments of his life were those in which he heard the
shouts of victory at Colle di Santiarno, and the cries of triumph on
the summit of the Italian ridge. Whymper, and later Tyndall, found him
an awkward man to deal with. He had the rough, undisciplined nature
of the mountain he loved. He looked on the Matterhorn as a kind of
preserve, and was determined that he and no other should lead on the
final and successful ascent. Whymper’s first attempt failed owing
to the poor qualities of his guide; and the Carrels were not more
successful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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