There we may leave Taugwalder, and the minor issues of this great
tragedy. The broader lessons are summed up by Mr. Whymper in a
memorable passage: “So the traditional inaccessibility of the
Matterhorn was vanquished, and was replaced by legends of a more real
character. Others will essay to scale its proud cliffs, but to none
will it be the mountain that it was to the early explorers. Others may
tread its summit snows, but none will ever know the feelings of those
who first gazed upon its marvellous panorama; and none, I trust, will
ever be compelled to tell of joy turned into grief, and of laughter
into mourning. It proved to be a stubborn foe; it resisted long and
gave many a hard blow; it was defeated at last with an ease that none
could have anticipated, but like a relentless enemy--conquered, but
not crushed--it took a terrible vengeance.”
The last sentence has a peculiar significance. A strange fatality seems
to dog the steps of those who seek untrodden paths to the crest of the
Matterhorn. Disaster does not always follow with the dramatic swiftness
of that which marked the conquest of the eastern face, yet, slowly but
surely, the avenging spirit of the Matterhorn fulfils itself.
On July 16, two days after the catastrophe, J. A. Carrel set out to
crown Whymper’s victory by proving that the Italian ridge was not
unconquerable. He was accompanied by Abbé Gorret, a plucky priest who
had shared with him that first careless attack on the mountain. Bich
and Meynet completed the party. The Abbé and Meynet remained behind not
very far from the top, in order to help Carrel and Bich on the return
at a place where a short descent onto a ledge was liable to cause
difficulty on the descent. This ledge, known as Carrel’s corridor,
is about forty minutes from the summit. It needed a man of Carrel’s
determined courage to follow its winding course. It is now avoided.
The rest of the climb presented no difficulty. Carrel had conquered the
Italian ridge. The ambition of years was half fulfilled, only half, for
the Matterhorn itself had been climbed. One cannot but regret that he
had turned back on the 14th. Whymper’s cries of triumph had spelt for
him the disappointment of a lifetime. Yet a fine rôle was open to him.
Had he gone forward and crowned Whymper’s victory by a triumph unmarred
by disaster; had the Matterhorn defied all assaults for years, and then
yielded on the same day to a party from the Swiss side and Carrel’s
men from Italy, the most dramatic page in Alpine history would have
been complete. Thirty-five years later, the Matterhorn settled the long
outstanding debt, and the man who had first attacked the citadel died
in a snowstorm on the Italian ridge of the mountain which he had been
the first to assail, and the first to conquer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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