Carrel was in his sixty-second year when he started out for his last
climb. Bad weather detained the party in the Italian hut, and Signor
Sinigaglia noticed that Carrel was far from well. After two nights
in the hut, the provisions began to run out; and it was decided to
attempt the descent. The rocks were in a terrible condition, and the
storm added to the difficulty. Carrel insisted on leading, though he
was far from well. He knew every yard of his own beloved ridge. If a
man could pilot them through the storm that man was Carrel. Quietly and
methodically, he fought his way downward, yard by yard, undaunted by
the hurricane, husbanding the last ounces of his strength. He would not
allow the other guides to relieve him till the danger was past, and his
responsibilities were over. Then suddenly he collapsed, and in a few
minutes the gallant old warrior fell backwards and died. A cross now
marks the spot where the old soldier died in action.
In life the leading guides of Breuil had often resented Carrel’s
unchallenged supremacy. But death had obliterated the old jealousies.
Years afterwards, a casual climber stopped before Carrel’s cross, and
remarked to the son of Carrel’s great rival, “So that is where Carrel
fell.” “Carrel did not fall,” came the indignant answer, “Carrel died.”
Let us turn from Carrel to the conquerors of another great ridge of the
Matterhorn.
Of others concerned with attacks on the Italian ridge, Tyndall, Bennen,
and J. J. Macquignaz, all came to premature ends. Bennen was killed in
an historic accident on the Haut de Cry, and Macquignaz disappeared
on Mont Blanc. In 1879, two independent parties on the same day made
the first ascent of the great northern ridge of the Matterhorn known
as the Zmutt arête. Mummery and Penhall were the amateurs responsible
for these two independent assaults. “The memory,” writes Mummery, “of
two rollicking parties, comprised of seven men, who on one day in 1879
were climbing on the west face of the Matterhorn passes with ghost-like
admonition before my mind, and bids me remember that, of these seven,
Mr. Penhall was killed on the Wetterhorn, Ferdinand Imseng on the
Macugnaga side of Monte Rosa, and Johan Petrus on the Frersnay Mont
Blanc.” Of the remaining four, Mummery disappeared in the Himalayas in
1895, Louis Zurbrucken was killed, Alexander Burgener perished in an
avalanche near the Bergli hut in 1911. Mr. Baumann and Emil Rey, who
with Petrus followed in Mummery’s footsteps three days later, both came
to untimely ends: Baumann disappeared in South Africa, and Emil Rey was
killed on the Dent de Géant. The sole survivor of these two parties is
the well-known Augustin Gentinetta, one of the ablest of the Zermat
guides. Burgener and Gentinetta guided Mummery on the above-mentioned
climb, while Penhall was accompanied by Louis Zurbrucken. In recent
times, three great mountaineers who climbed this ridge together died
violent deaths within the year. The superstitious should leave the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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