The Roche Melon, near Susa, was the first Alpine peak of any
consequence to be climbed. This mountain rises to a height of 11,600
feet. It was long believed to be the highest mountain in Savoy. On one
side there is a small glacier; but the climb can be effected without
crossing snow. It was climbed during the Dark Ages by a knight, Rotario
of Asti, who deposited a bronze tryptych on the summit where a chapel
still remains. Once a year the tryptych is carried to the summit, and
Mass is heard in the chapel. There is a description of an attempt on
this peak in the Chronicle of Novalessa, which dates back to the first
half of the eleventh century. King Romulus is said to have deposited
treasure on the mountain. The whole Alpine history of this peak is
vague, but it is certain that the peak was climbed at a very early
period, and that a chapel was erected on the summit before Villamont’s
ascent in 1588. The climb presents no difficulties, but it was found
discreet to remove the statue of the Virgin, as pilgrims seem to have
lost their lives in attempting to reach it. The pilgrimages did not
cease even after the statue had been placed in Susa.
[Illustration:
Bartholomew, Edin
]
Another early ascent must be recorded, though the climb was a very
modest achievement. Mont Ventoux, in Provence, is only some 6430 feet
above the sea, and to-day there is an hôtel on the summit. None the
less, it deserves a niche in Alpine history, for its ascent is coupled
with the great name of the poet Petrarch. Mr. Gribble calls Petrarch
the first of the sentimental mountaineers. Certainly, he was one of the
first mountaineers whose recorded sentiments are very much ahead of his
age. The ascent took place on April 26, 1335, and Petrarch described it
in a letter written to his confessor. He confesses that he cherished
for years the ambition to ascend Mont Ventoux, and seized the first
chance of a companion to carry through this undertaking. He makes the
customary statement as to the extreme difficulty of the ascent, and
introduces a shepherd who warns him from the undertaking. There are
some very human touches in the story of the climb. While his brother
was seeking short cuts, Petrarch tried to advance on more level ground,
an excuse for his laziness which cost him dear, for the others had made
considerable progress while he was still wandering in the gullies of
the mountain. He began to find, like many modern mountaineers, that
“human ingenuity was not a match for the nature of things, and that it
was impossible to gain heights by moving downwards.” He successfully
completed the ascent, and the climb filled him with enthusiasm. The
reader should study the fine translation of his letter by Mr. Reeve,
quoted in _The Early Mountaineers_. Petrarch caught the romance of
heights. The spirit that breathes through every line of his letter is
worthy of the poet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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