But even Dolomites and Chamounix aiguilles are not inexhaustible, and
the number of unconquered summits gradually diminished. The rapid
opening up of the Alps has naturally turned the attention of men with
the exploring instinct and ample means to the exploration of the great
mountain ranges beyond Europe. This does not fall within the scope of
the present volume, and we need only remark in passing that British
climbers have played an important part in the campaigns against the
fortresses of the Himalaya, Caucasus, Andes, and Rockies.
Meanwhile the ambitious mountaineer was forced to look for new routes
on old peaks. Now, a man in search of the easiest way up a difficult
peak could usually discover a route which was climbable without severe
technical difficulty. On a big mountain, it is often possible to evade
any small and very difficult section. But most mountains, even our
British hills, have at least one route which borders on the impossible,
and a diligent search will soon reveal it. Consider the two extremes of
rock-climbing. Let us take the Matterhorn as a good example of a big
mountain which consists almost entirely of rock. It is impossible to
find a route up the Matterhorn which one could climb with one’s hands
in one’s pockets, but the ordinary Swiss route is an easy scramble as
far as the shoulder, and, with the fixed ropes, a straightforward climb
thence to the top. Its Furggen Ridge has been once climbed under fair
conditions and then only with a partial deviation. It is extremely
severe and dangerous. The task of the mountaineers who first assailed
the Matterhorn was to pick out the easiest line of approach. The Zmutt,
and in a greater degree the Furggen routes, were obviously ruled out of
consideration. The Italian route was tried many times without success
before the Swiss route was discovered. Of course, the Matterhorn, like
all big mountains, varies in difficulty from day to day. It is a very
long climb; and, if the conditions are unfavourable, it may prove a
very difficult and a very dangerous peak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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