Turning to the nursery of Welsh climbers, Lliwedd can be climbed on a
mule, and Lliwedd can also be climbed by about thirty or more distinct
routes up its southern rock face. If a man begins to look for new
routes up a wall of a cliff a thousand feet in height and a mile or
so in breath, he will sooner or later reach the line which divided
reasonable from unreasonable risk. Modern pioneer work in the Alps is
nearer the old ideal. It is not simply the search for the hardest of
all climbable routes up a given rock face. In England, the danger of
a rock fall is practically absent, and a rock face is not considered
climbed out as long as one can work up from base to summit by a
series of ledges not touched on a previous climb. Two such routes will
sometimes be separated by a few feet. In the Alps, the pioneer is
compelled by objective difficulties to look for distinct ridges and
faces unswept by stones and avalanches. There is a natural challenge in
the sweep of a great ridge falling through some thousand unconquered
feet to the pastures below. There is only an artificial challenge in a
“new” route some thousand feet in height separated only by a few yards
of cliff from an “old” route. We do not wish to depreciate British
climbing, which has its own fascination and its own value; but, if it
calls for greater cragsmanship, it demands infinitely less mountain
craft than the conquest of a difficult Alpine route.
And what is true of British rock-climbing is even more true of Tirol.
Ranges, such as the Kaisergebirge, have been explored with the same
thoroughness that has characterised British rock-climbing. Almost
every conceivable variation of the “just possible” has been explored.
Unfortunately, the death-roll in these districts is painfully high, as
the keenness of the young Austrian and Bavarian has not infrequently
exceeded their experience and powers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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