rocks, and runs home over grass and scree. None the less, these cliffs
have produced some wonderfully fine mountaineers. We have our Winklers,
and we have also young rock-climbers who confine their energies to the
permissible limit of the justifiable climbing and who, within those
limits, carry their craft to its most refined possibilities. Hugh Pope,
one of the most brilliant of the younger school of rock-climbers,
learned his craft on the British hills, and showed in his first Alpine
season the value of that training. To the great loss of British
mountaineering he was killed in 1912 on the Pic du Midi d’Ossau.
Another comparatively recent development is the growth of winter
mountaineering. The first winter expedition of any importance after
the beginnings of serious mountaineering was Mr. T. S. Kennedy’s
attempt on the Matterhorn in 1863. He conceived the curious idea that
the Matterhorn might prove easier in winter than in summer. Here, he
was very much mistaken. He was attacked by a storm, and retreated
after reaching a point where the real climb begins. It was a plucky
expedition. But the real pioneer of winter mountaineering was W. A.
Moore. In 1866, with Mr. Horace Walker, Melchior Anderegg, Christian
Almer, and “Peterli” Bohren, he left Grindelwald at midnight; they
crossed the Finsteraarjoch, and returned within the twenty-four hours
to Grindelwald over the Strahlegg. Even in summer this would prove a
strenuous day. In winter, it is almost incredible that this double
traverse should have been carried through without sleeping out.
Most of the great peaks have now been ascended in winter; and amongst
others Mr. Coolidge must be mentioned as a prominent pioneer. His
ascents of the Jungfrau, Wetterhorn, and Schreckhorn--the first in
winter--with Christian Almer, did much to set the fashion. Mrs. Le
Blond, the famous lady climber, has an even longer list of winter first
ascents to her credit. But the real revolution in winter mountaineering
has been caused by the introduction of ski-ing. In winter, the main
difficulty is getting to the high mountain huts. Above the huts,
the temperature is often mild and equable for weeks together. A low
temperature on the ground co-exists with a high temperature in the air.
Rock-ridges facing south or south-west are often denuded of snow, and
as easy to climb as in summer. Signor Sella also made some brilliant
winter ascents, such as the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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