It is young men of this stamp that play such a great part in raising
the standard of continental mountaineering. Their cragsmanship often
verges on the impossible. A book published in Munich, entitled _Empor_,
affords stimulating reading. This book was produced in honour and
in memory of Georg Winkler by some of his friends. Winkler was a
young Munich climber who carried through some of the most daring
rock climbs ever recorded. _Empor_ contains his diary, and several
articles contributed by various members of one of the most remarkable
climbing groups in Alpine history. Winkler’s amazing performances
give to the book a note which is lacking in most Alpine literature.
Winkler was born in 1869. As a boy of eighteen he made, quite alone,
the first ascent of the Winklerturm, one of the most sensational--both
in appearance and reality--of all Dolomite pinnacles. On the 14th of
August 1888 he traversed alone the Zinal Rothhorn, and on the 18th
he lost his life in a solitary attempt on the great Zinal face of
the Weisshorn. No definite traces of him have ever been found. His
brother, born in the year of his death, has also carried through some
sensational solitary climbs.
We may, perhaps, be excused a certain satisfaction in the thought that
the British crags can occasionally produce climbers whose achievements
are quite as sensational as those of the Winklers. Without native
mountains, we could not hope to produce cragsmen equal to those of
Tirol and the Alps. One must begin young. It is, as a rule, only a
comparatively small minority that can afford a regular summer holiday
in the Alps; but Scawfell and Lliwedd are accessible enough, and the
comparatively high standard of the British rock-climber owes more to
British than to Alpine mountains. It was only in the last two decades
that the possibilities of these crags were systematically worked
out, though isolated climbs have been recorded for many years. The
patient and often brilliant explorations of a group of distinguished
mountaineers have helped to popularise a fine field for native talent,
and an arena for those who cannot afford a regular Alpine campaign.
Guides are unknown in Great Britain, and the man who learns to climb
there is often more independent and more self-reliant than the
mountaineer who is piloted about by guides. There is, of course, much
that can be learned only in the Alps. The home climber can learn to use
an axe in the wintry gullies round Scawfell. He learns something of
snow; but both snow and ice can only be properly studied in the regions
of perpetual snow. The home-trained cragsman, as a rule, learns to
lead up rocks far more difficult than anything met with on the average
Swiss peaks, but the wider lessons of route-finding over a long and
complicated expedition are naturally not acquired on a face of cliff
a thousand feet in height. Nor, for that matter, is the art of rapid
descent over easy rocks; for the British climber usually ascends by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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