_Moret at the Market._—The time of day differs in Moret-sur-Loing;
differs, also, in neighbouring villages. For miles around, the clocks
strike independently, instead of in chorus, so that it is ten at the
station, when it is ten minutes to, in our hotel; a quarter to ten,
inside the local _bijoutier’s_—but all hours within. When these clocks
have done striking, the church clock starts; there is no corroboration,
no unanimity. However... who cares, who worries? It is “almost” eleven;
“about” twelve; a “little past” four; that suffices. We are late, or
we are early. We get accustomed to being strangely in three places
at the very same hour. Should a friend be pressed we can say: “That
clock is fast”; if he weary us, we need not hesitate to declare it
slow. And watches vary; time is of no moment, in Moret. Farther still
from Fontainebleau, in the village of Grez, the two or three hundred
inhabitants rely chiefly on the Curé for the hour. He alone controls the
church clock; but he, an irascible old gentleman, often quarrels with the
Mayor: and on these occasions stops the clock immediately, revengefully.
Once the quarrel lasted three whole months: for three whole months the
hands of the clock remained stationary. The Mayor protested: but the
Curé ignored him. When at last the Mayor withdrew his objection to the
point at issue, the Curé allowed the clock to go again. And now, if ever
the Mayor and the Curé disagree, the Curé stops the clock, the Mayor
protests, the Curé ignores him: and Grez has no church clock to tell the
time until the unhappy Mayor gives in.
Fortunately for us in Moret, the Mayor and Curé are friends. We depend
more or less on the Curé’s clock—most dilapidated of dials—whose solemn
summons at ten on Sunday bids us attend High Mass; whose brisker chimes
at the same hour on Tuesday set us hastening towards the market. Indeed,
in our hotel, disdainful of its dubious timepiece, we wait for the
ten strokes and after counting them join the villagers outside: knots
of villagers, rows of villagers, solitary villagers, but all of them
fresh, immaculate. Each woman wears a print dress, or a print skirt
and camisole, a spotted handkerchief tied in a knot at the top of her
head. Each man has drawn on a clean cotton shirt and his newest coat,
or a blouse; his tie invariably is bright. Each girl is clad lightly,
charmingly, and has becomingly arranged her hair. As for us... well, we
do not seem shabby beside a painter, a Parisian in “le boating” costume:
our scarf is as silken as theirs, our waistcoat is equally white and
_piqué_, but our cane is undoubtedly handsomer, and we think we dangle it
more elegantly.
Over the cobble-stones, avoiding the _ruisseau_, we go—smoking and
chatting—the peasants swinging their baskets, the girls giving a last
touch to their hair—an amazing spectacle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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