When the tepid night settled down upon the plaza, we made a hurried meal
and, leaving the crowd still drinking, made our way to the station.
There are two trains every twenty-four hours each way between Mexico
City and Vera Cruz, and a few minutes after we reached the platform the
day train from the capital came lumbering in, the bell on its huge
Atlantic type of engine ringing mournfully. The same train starts back
within a few minutes--the engines only being changed--and the narrow
platform was quite the wrong place for the dreamer during the next few
moments, with the crowds clambering out of the huge corridor cars and a
mob of would-be passengers fighting to get in. In the mêlée one of us
slipped between the train and the platform, while the train was still
slowly moving, but was withdrawn by a friendly arm before the oncoming
bogey-wheel had passed over his foot and put a summary end to
explorations in Yucatan.
Railway fares in Mexico are cheap, and the carriages are nasty. Seats of
green leather with metal arm-rests (invention of railway-devil, surely)
are ranged, like the seats on a bus-top, each side of the car with an
avenue down the centre. A Pullman sleeping and breakfast compartment
always form part of the night trains. Otherwise there are firsts,
seconds, and thirds, the latter wooden-benched contrivances, designed
apparently with the set purpose of getting into the cubic space
available the wherewithal for as much potential human discomfort as
possible. Into these cars the Mexicans and Indians are climbing, a river
of strange colour--blankets of all shades and stripes, straw steeple
hats of every make for the men, the womenfolk bare-headed always--baskets
of fruit and breads, bottles of drink, and queer knotted
handkerchief-luggage reminiscent--without their cleanliness, though--of
those blue and black silk handkerchiefs in which "Jack" brings along his
spare jumper and flannel shirt when he "comes home again." For us in our
lordly "first"--its floors stained with a myriad expectorations, its
cushions bumpy and springless--there is gathering a motley gang of
Mexico's upper ten, among whom the diabolical bowler hat and those
impossible tweeds, which the foreigner, imitating our fashions, raises
God knows where, predominate over the Mexican dress. A minute before we
start our most interesting fellow-passenger arrives--a young man--his
straw steeple hat set rakishly on one side, his red-white-and-blue
blanket thrown round him and under one ear--closely followed by two
dark-garbed Mexicans. He is a prisoner, of whom more later, and, as the
whistle sounds, we see that his companions are engaged in making him
comfortable for the night by mooring him with glistening steel handcuffs
to the metal arm-rest of his seat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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