type--high cheek-bones, flattish face; but when that man smiled, well,
you just felt a new optimism in the inherent goodness of human nature
steal on you. The St. Francis was built Spanish fashion with a
courtyard, the rooms facing on to three galleries, the courtyard forming
a lounge. As far as comfort went it was nowhere in comparison with the
commercial hotels in the provincial towns in England, but it sustained
its reputation of being free from vermin, and one's bed linen was
changed every day.
The climate of the city is very trying for any one with heart weakness.
Indeed, to even the robust the rarefied air at such a vast height as
8,000 feet brings a perpetual sense of being fagged out, and a
disagreeably insistent panting at the least exertion. We found all the
English residents suffered from a perpetual malaise, the "tired feeling"
of the tonic advertisements. Curiously enough, too, the immense
altitude, so far exceeding that of Davos Platz, does not protect the
phthisical and weak-lunged. The death rate from lung diseases is
terrific. The days are hot and the nights are often so cold that you
must wear your thickest overcoat or run the risk of pneumonia. A queer
result of this is that the streets are quite empty soon after dark. Till
nine you will see a few Indians, only their eyes visible above their
blankets, straggling along, or a Mexican in closed carriage will dash
past. But later the place becomes a city of the dead. Coming back from a
dinner we walked through street after street and never saw a soul (it
was only 10.30) save the police, who stand in the middle of the roads, a
lighted lantern on the ground between their boots.
The city is patrolled after dark by the Republican Guard, mounted on
sturdy Mexican cobs and armed with Winchesters, heavy revolvers, and
swords. These men stand no nonsense, and the consequence is that
outwardly the capital is one of the most orderly in the world. You
scarcely ever see a brawl, you never hear a voice raised in anger; and
yet the police are not officious. They do not fidget or bustle: they are
everywhere, but they are not obtrusive, and they are certainly most
courteous. We asked the way of one, and he directed us. Some fifty yards
on we heard some one running behind us, and turned to see, with
astonishment, the officer, who with many bows explained that he thought
we might have misunderstood, so he had run after us to personally put us
in the way. Surely politeness could no further go! Imagine a
twenty-stone City constable "sprinting" after a Frenchman who desired to
study the architectural glories of "Ze house of ze Lor Maire"! There is
no doubt we English are phlegmatic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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