We had defended ourselves as well as we could from the unbridled
hospitality of our host, but all the same we felt like boa-constrictors
who had made an injudicious meal of goats whole, when we packed
ourselves into a skeleton cab to pay a visit of inspection to the Merida
prison, which is one of the sights of the place. The drive thither was
through one of the finest thoroughfares in the city, lined with
substantially built bungalow-houses of stone and stucco, each standing
in its picturesque tropical garden, a mass of bloom and waving
fan-palms. This street debouches upon the broad Avenida de Paz, a
wonderful stretch of asphalt running the full width of the city and
forming its western frontier. Beyond this opens out the really fine
Plaza de Porfirio Diaz, a great oval of lawn intersected by broad paths
of asphalt meeting in a large central space ornamented by a small
artificial lake with fountain. The Penitenciaria Juarez fronts upon the
plaza, a long low building of limestone stuccoed, one-storeyed save over
the central doorway, where a turreted second storey forms the residence
of the President, as the governor of the gaol is called. This official
met us at the doorway. He was a Mexican of about forty, a tall,
handsome, military-looking man, swarthy-skinned, with a big black
moustache. He impressed us very favourably, for there was in the face a
certain charm of frankness and straightforwardness which is not
characteristic of the Mexicans, and is almost wholly lacking in the
Yucatecans. His smile was quite kindly, though behind it it was not
difficult to detect a certain official grimness which suggested a man
capable of anything if duty demanded. He had been imported into Yucatan
because of his reputation as a specialist in the governing of gaols, and
what we saw of the administration of the building under his control
suggested that Yucatan had been very wise in her importation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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