“I too have been impressed with this capability,” said Sara--“strongly
impressed. Last Sunday I went to the Methodist colored Sunday-school on
St. George Street. The teachers are Northerners; some resident here,
some winter visitors; and the classes were filled up with full-grown men
and women, some of them aged and gray-haired, old uncles and aunties,
eager to learn, although they could scarcely see with their old eyes.
They repeated Bible texts in chorus, and then they began to read. It was
a pathetic sight to see the old men slowly following the simple words
with intense eagerness, keeping the place under each one with careful
finger. The younger men and girls read fluently, and showed quick
understanding in the answers given to the teachers’ questions. Then the
little children filed in from another room, and they all began to sing.
Oh, how they sang! The tenor voice of a young jet-black negro who sat
near me haunts me still with its sweet cadences. Singularly enough, the
favorite hymn seemed to be one whose chorus, repeated again and again,
ended in the words,
“‘Shall wash me white as snow--
White as snow.’”
“The negroes of St. Augustine were formerly almost all Romanists,” said
John, “and many of them still attend the old cathedral on the Plaza,
where there is a gallery especially for them. But of late the number of
Methodists and Baptists has largely increased, while the old cathedral
and its bishop, who once ruled supreme over the consciences of the whole
population of la siempre fiel Ciudad de San Augustin, find themselves in
danger of being left stranded high and dry as the tide of progress and
education sweeps by without a glance. The Peabody Educational Fund
supports almost entirely two excellent free schools here, one for white
and one for colored children; and in spite of opposition, gradually,
year by year, even Roman Catholic parents yield to the superior
advantages offered to their children, and the church schools hold fewer
and fewer scholars, especially among the boys. The Presbyterian church,
with its pastor and earnest working congregation, has made a strong
battle against the old-time influences, and it now looks as though the
autocratic sway of the religion of Spain were forever broken in this
ancient little Spanish city.”
“At least, however, the swarthy priests _look_ picturesque and
appropriate as they come and go between their convent and the old
cathedral through that latticed gate in their odd dress,” said Sara. “Do
you remember, in _Baddeck_, the pleasing historical Jesuit, slender too
corpulent a word to describe his thinness, his stature primeval? Warner
goes on to say that the traveler is grateful for such figures, and is
not disposed to quarrel with the faith that preserves so much of the
ugly picturesque.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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