The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
The excursion to CARPENTRAS may be made by rail, and from that point the
ancient architectural remains at Pernes and Venasque may be easily
reached. At Carpentras, besides the Roman arch already described, the
church of St Siffrein and the Gothic gateways of the town are well worth
visiting.
VENASQUE contains a very ancient baptistery covered with a dome, and
ornamented with marble columns and classic capitals. The whole structure
is believed to belong to the Roman period.
At PERNES there is a church partly Romanesque and partly Gothic, with a
cupola over the choir supported on pendentives, and a crypt of the
eleventh century.
LE THOR, a small village about 12 miles east from Avignon on the road to
Aix, contains, in the church of Ste-Marie-au-lac, a most interesting
example of the mixture of Roman and Romanesque features in Provençal
architecture. The nave consists of a single hall roofed with a tunnel
vault, strengthened with transverse ribs, except the bay next the apse,
which is covered with an octagonal dome, formerly surmounted by a
belfry. The west façade and porch are very fine, and bear a striking
resemblance in style to Notre Dame des Doms and St Gabriel.
CAVAILLON, besides its Roman remains, contains an interesting early
church. It consists of a single nave finished with an apse, which is
semi-circular within and hexagonal externally.
The original side aisles have been converted into chapels, and the
pointed tunnel vault is carried on great piers, with twisted or fluted
shafts in the angles towards the top (as at Aix and Arles).
Amidst the marshes, about half way between Cavaillon and St Remy, is
found the small church of Molléges, formerly the chapel of a Cistertian
monastery. The belfry of this church (Fig. 62) is cited by
Viollet-le-Duc as a striking example of the influence of Roman
monuments, such as that at St Remy, on the design of some of the
Provençal steeples. It is certainly remarkable that this telling
illustration should occur so near the original (see p. 49).
In approaching TARASCON, we again observe the opposite banks of the
Rhone occupied by two castles representing the dominating powers on
either side. The massive rock on the right bank, crowned with high
crenellated walls and lofty keep, is the royal castle of Beaucaire; and
the lower but more solid looking pile close to the left bank of the
Rhone is the castle said to have been finished and occupied by King René
of Provence.
[Illustration: 62. LE CLOCHER DE MOLLÉGES.
from Viollet-le-Duc’s _Dictionnaire_.)]
The history of Tarascon is similar to that of the other towns on the
Rhone. Originally a market, established by the Greek colonists of
Marseilles, it was converted into a Roman settlement, and retained some
of its municipal institutions and liberties under the suzerainty of the
Counts of Provence, till they were gradually lost under the feudal
system. The church of St Martha, originally built in the twelfth
century, on the ruins of a Roman temple, was
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