The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
The buildings of this period in Arles are particularly rich in
tabernacles or niches at the corners of the streets, filled with the
image of a saint, before which hangs a lamp. These are not uncommon in
most continental towns, but here some of them are very finely designed
and add much to the generally quaint and striking character of the
houses.
Of the Renaissance buildings of Arles the Hôtel de Ville is worthy of
observation. The Tour de l’Horloge (1550), is a good specimen, and the
vaulting and general effect of the pillared hall and staircase are fine
(1675).
About three miles from Arles stand the ruins of the great monastic
establishment of MONT-MAJOUR, which comprise a most interesting series
of structures, illustrative of Provençal architecture in all its stages,
from the primitive rock-hewn hermitage of St Trophime to the fully
developed church of the Cistertian style, concluding with a rich and
luxurious edifice of the time of the Renaissance.
[Illustration: FIG. 79. PLAN OF HERMITAGE OF ST CESAIRE, MONT-MAJOUR.]
This monastery is situated on a rocky hill which rises out of the flat
plain of the Rhone, and which, in Roman times, was undoubtedly an island
surrounded by the waters of the river. Near the base of the south-east
side of the rock, a cave is said to have formed the hermitage of St
Trophime, the patron saint of Arles (Fig. 79). To preserve and
consecrate this hermitage it was converted into a chapel, and enclosed
with an arcade (the inner one) cut in the rock. To this again at a later
time an outer wall has been added so as to form a chapel, dedicated to
St Peter, on the exterior of the cave. Beyond the east end of the
chapel there are three additional rude chambers hollowed out of rock.
One of these, which is nearly filled with a great stone seat, is called
the confessional of St Trophime. At the west end there is a space
forming a kind of entrance porch or narthex.
The ancient chapel or hermitage is entirely excavated in the rock, and
has a seat left along the inner side, which being continued round the
east end forms a step up to the choir. This chapel may be of a very
early date, but it is impossible to fix its age from the total absence
of architectural features.
[Illustration: FIG. 80. HERMITAGE OF ST TROPHIME, MONT-MAJOUR--CHAPEL OF
ST PETER.]
The outer chapel (Fig. 80) is not of so great antiquity, but the
ornament of the caps and form of the tunnel vault belong to the
earliest period of the Provençal style--probably the ninth or tenth
century. The exterior is seen at the bottom of Fig. 85.
The monastery was erected on the upper part of the rock, and was
surrounded like a feudal castle with a fortified wall of enceinte. It
was also protected by a keep or citadel, such as frequently occurs in
these Southern monasteries, exposed as they were to attack on all hands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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