of the houses adjoining the north gateway (Fig. 226) is amongst the oldest and least altered examples. Numerous narrow lanes branch off the main street and descend by steps and arcades to the roads which run round the walls. In other cases arches are thrown across the street, and picturesque effects are thus produced (Figs. 225 and 227). Most of the buildings in the main street date from the time of Francis I. After the destructive invasion of Provence by Charles V., Francis found that his frontier in this quarter was insufficiently protected, and employed an engineer from Arles called Mandon to inspect the locality and fix on the best site for a fortress. Mandon chose the isolated hill on which stood the ancient town of St Paul as the best suited for this purpose; and it was accordingly fortified and surrounded with the walls and bastions which still subsist almost in their entirety. St Paul was thus raised into a place of some importance and security, and became the residence of a governor and several families of distinction. This no doubt led to the improvement of the architecture of which we have seen so many examples. Of the town houses of the governor and nobility some specimens still remain--one well preserved mansion of a somewhat later period is seen in sketch, Fig 225, and relics of others are also to be found, though in a sadly degraded and dilapidated state. In the Maison Suraire (formerly Du Port), remains of ancient magnificence still exist in two richly decorated mantelpieces, of which Fig. 228 is one. The original staircase of this house is also still in use; its richly-carved and ornamental balustrade of marble (Fig. 229) forming a strange contrast with its present humble position as an access to peasants’ houses. The mode of junction of the pedestals at the turn of the staircase by placing a boldly cut lion rampant between them is novel and effective. [Illustration: FIG. 224. SIDE STREET, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.] This house stands in the very diminutive and only little “place” in the town, where also is the fountain, and whence branches off the way to the church, which stands on the highest point of the site. The main street, and all the side alleys, are but continuations of the mule paths of the country, interrupted here and there with steps, and all too narrow to admit a cart or carriage of any kind. They are thus often so completely swept by the loads of firewood and brushwood on the mules’ backs, that passengers have to seek shelter in the recesses of the doorways. The walks round the walls are in part wider, and the small gardens of the houses sloping down to them, with the dark foliage and golden fruit of their orange groves, form a fine foreground to the lovely prospects visible in every direction. [Illustration: FIG. 225. MAIN STREET, ST PAUL-DU-VAR.]