The Architecture of Provence and the RivieraMacGibbon, David
History
The Architecture of Provence and the Riviera
MacGibbon, David
Architecture -- France -- Provence; Architecture -- France -- Riviera
Arles possesses the only ancient Obelisk in Gaul. It stands in the
“place,” opposite the entrance to the cathedral, and is set on the backs
of four lions, raised upon a pedestal. It was elevated to this eminence
in 1676, after having lain for long in the bed of the river. The shaft
is of grey granite, 47 feet high, but it is not of an elegant form, and
tapers too rapidly towards the summit. It originally formed the spina of
a Roman circus, where it was found in 1389.
In the front wall of the Hôtel du Nord (in the Place d’hommes) are
inserted the fragments of two Roman granite columns with Corinthian
caps, and part of a pediment (Fig. 12). But unfortunately the traveller,
while enjoying the hospitality of the patron of the “Nord,” and sleeping
with his head perhaps within a few feet of these remains, cannot have
the satisfaction of imagining himself a dweller in a real Roman edifice,
as it is evident that they are not in their original position, but have
been brought from a distance at some remote time and set up here.
There are a few remnants, close to the river, of a building said to be
the Palace of Constantine, including a brick tower called “La tour de la
Trouille.” This is a palace which has had many and varied
occupants--passing from its Roman masters down to the Kings of the
Ostrogoths and Visigoths, the Kings of the Franks, and the Kings of
Arles, the “Holy Roman Emperors” (when they came here to be crowned
Kings of Arles), and the Counts of Provence.
[Illustration: FIG. 12. PLACE D’HOMMES, ARLES.]
In Roman times there was a space to the east of the town used as a
cemetery, and called the Elysii Campi, or Champs Elysées, now the
“Alyscamps.” This necropolis was by tradition supposed to have been
specially consecrated by our Saviour himself, and consequently became a
very favourite place of burial. Princes and dignitaries of Church and
State desired to rest here. Bodies committed to the river (along with
the suitable burial fees) were sure to reach the Alyscamps. It was
celebrated by the poets Dante and Ariosto, and became of world-wide
fame. Chapels and churches were erected in the vicinity, there being no
less than nineteen at one time. But the translation of the body of St
Trophime, A.D. 1152, from the Alyscamps to the cathedral of Arles,
seemed to take away the prestige of the former, and from that time it
gradually decayed.
[Illustration: FIG. 13. THE ALYSCAMPS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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