The Arctic Prairies : a Canoe-Journey of 2,000 Miles in Search of the Caribou;: Being the Account of a Voyage to the Region North of Aylemer LakeSeton, Ernest Thompson
History
The Arctic Prairies : a Canoe-Journey of 2,000 Miles in Search of the Caribou;: Being the Account of a Voyage to the Region North of Aylemer Lake
Seton, Ernest Thompson
Alberta -- Description and travel; Canada, Northern -- Description and travel; Canoes and canoeing -- Canada, Northern -- History -- 20th century; Caribou hunting -- Canada, Northern -- History -- 20th century; Mackenzie (N.W.T.) -- Description and travel; Outdoor life -- Canada, Northern -- History
The case is simple. During the past winter, while the Antelope were
gone southward, the Canadian Pacific Railway Company had fenced its
track. In spring the migrants, returning, found themselves cut off
from their summer feeding-grounds by those impassable barb-wires, and
so were gathered against the barrier. One band of 8, at a stopping
place, ran off when they saw passengers alighting, but at half a
mile they turned, and again came up against the fence, showing how
strong is the northward impulse.
Unless they learn some way of mastering the difficulty, it means
extermination for the Antelope of the north Saskatchewan.
From Calgary we went by train to Edmonton. This is the point
of leaving the railway, the beginning of hard travel, and here we
waited a few days to gather together our various shipments of food
and equipment, and to await notice that the river was open.
In the north the grand event of the year is the opening of the
rivers. The day when the ice goes out is the official first day
of spring, the beginning of the season; and is eagerly looked for,
as every day's delay means serious loss to the traders, whose men
are idle, but drawing pay as though at work.
On May 11, having learned that the Athabaska was open, we left
Edmonton in a livery rig, and drove 94 miles northward though a most
promising, half-settled country, and late the next day arrived at
Athabaska Landing, on the great east tributary of the Mackenzie,
whose waters were to bear us onward for so many weeks.
Athabaska Landing is a typical frontier town. These are hard words,
but justified. We put up at the principal hotel; the other lodgers
told me it was considered the worst hotel in the world. I thought
I knew of two worse, but next morning accepted the prevailing view.
Our canoe and provisions arrived, but the great convoy of scows
that were to take the annual supplies of trade stuff for the far
north was not ready, and we needed the help and guidance of its
men, so must needs wait for four days.
This gave us the opportunity to study the local natural history
and do a little collecting, the results of which appear later.
The great size of the timber here impressed me. I measured a typical
black poplar (P. balsamifera), 100 feet to the top, 8 feet 2 inches
in circumference, at 18 inches from the ground, and I saw many
thicker, but none taller.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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