The Arena, Volume 4, No. 22, September, 1891Various
Religion
The Arena, Volume 4, No. 22, September, 1891
Various
American literature -- Periodicals
[1] During this period the ingenuity of man came to woman's
rescue, by the invention of an interesting, and, judging by
its popularity, exceedingly serviceable contrivance known as
a dress elevator, which enabled ladies to instantly elevate
their enormous trains when they came to a particularly muddy
and filthy crossing.
When we examine the prevailing styles which marked this period, we are
struck with amazement at the power exerted by fashion over the
intellect and judgment of society. Imagine the shame and humiliation
of a woman of fashion, endowed by nature or afflicted by disease with
such an unsightly hump on the back as characterized the fashionable
toilet of this period!
[Illustration: 1870 to 1875: "Suggesting in some instances a toboggan
slide; in others, the unseemly hump on the back of a camel."]
Toward the end of the seventies, we find another extreme reached,
which if possible was more absurd and injurious than those which
marked the early days of this decade. This was the period of the
tie-back, or narrow skirts and enormous trains. As in 1860 fashion's
slaves vied with one another in their effort to cover the largest
possible circular space, now their ambitions lay in the direction of
the opposite extreme:[2] the skirts must be as narrow as possible even
though it greatly impeded walking, for as will be readily observed all
free use of the lower limbs was out of the question during the reign
of the "tie-back."
[2] It was in the midst of the period of the tie-backs that
_Harper's Bazar_ published two striking cartoons
illustrating the poem given below. One represented a poor
man's wife, "The slave of toil," and was pathetically
powerful in its fidelity to truth; the other, drawn by the
powerful Nast, represented a society lady of the day attired
in the reigning tie-back, measuring at the hips a little
more than double the width a short distance below the knees.
This slave was chained to fashion's column.
SISTER SLAVES.
You think there is little of kinship between them?
Perhaps not in blood, yet there's likeness of soul;
And in bondage 'tis patent to all who have seen them
That both are fast held under iron control.
The simpering girl, with her airs and her graces,
Is sister at heart to the hard-working drudge;
Two types of to-day, as they stand in their places;
Whose lot is the sadder I leave you to judge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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