The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth centuryFfoulkes, Charles John
History
The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century
Ffoulkes, Charles John
Armor -- History; Armorers; Weapons -- History
No armed man should weare any cut doublets, as well in respect
that the wearing of armour doth quicklie fret them out and also
by reason that the corners and edges of the lames and jointes
of the armours doo take such holde uppon such cuttes as they do
hinder the quicke and sudden arming of men.
All parts of the suit were lined, for in spite of the padded
undergarment there was bound to be a certain amount of chafing
which, if the armour was unlined, would in time rub through the
undergarment. In many portraits, especially those of the late
sixteenth century, the linings are shown projecting below the edges
of the various pieces of the suit. The edges of these linings are
generally scalloped.
In the picture by Breughel on the frontispiece a cuisse is shown,
immediately beneath the basket of glass bottles in the centre
of the picture, which clearly has a padded lining. In a list of
payments for work done to Henry VIII’s armour we find “9 yards of
Cheshire cotton at 7d. for lining the king’s pasguard grandguard
great mayn de fer.” A similar charge is made in 1521 for two yards
of yellow satin at 7/4 for lining two head-pieces, two pair of
tasses, a pasguard, and two maynd fers. In 1510 we find an entry of
payment of 25 fl. 29 kr. to Walter Zeller of Innsbruck for lining
armour with black velvet and silk.[106] Frequently the padding
is shown in miniatures, especially on the inside of shields and
bucklers. The Highland targes are generally padded on the inside
with straw to take some of the shock of a blow from the arm. The
lining of such pieces as the taces and pauldrons was added to
prevent the metal over which they worked from being scratched, and
also to lessen the metallic noise, which would be a serious factor
in night attacks. Horse-armour, of course, needed heavy lining,
but little of this remains. An excellent reconstruction of lined
horse-armour is to be found on No. 620, Wallace Collection.
The stuffing of these padded garments was not always of cotton.
In the inventory of the goods of Sir John Falstoffe, 1459
(_Archæologia_, XXI), we find “i. jack of black linen stuffed with
mail and vi. jacks stuffed with horne, xxiiij. cappes stuffed with
horne and mayle, vj. payre of glovys of mayle of shepys skynne.”
Under the heading “Gambeson,” Du Cange[107] states that the
gambeson was stuffed with wool soaked with vinegar, to resist iron,
and he gives a reference to Pliny, Bk. VIII, c. 48, as bearing
on this statement. This was probably done to keep out vermin, a
serious factor when long marches with bad camping arrangements were
undertaken.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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