The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth centuryFfoulkes, Charles John
History
The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century
Ffoulkes, Charles John
Armor -- History; Armorers; Weapons -- History
In all the defences which were mainly composed of fabrics, the
object seems to have been to provide a substance which would resist
cut or thrust and at the same time would offer a certain resiliency
to the blow. A practical experiment upon thick leather and upon
folded or padded cloth will prove this. Till recent years the
Japanese made much of their armour of quilted fabrics, the chief
drawback to which was its heat and want of ventilation.
[Illustration: _PLATE XXIII_
MAN AT ARMS. MIDDLE OF XV CENT.]
This linen armour or linen and fabric covering for armour was a
distinct craft in itself, and was practised by the linen armourers,
who had the sole right to cover armour or to make such defences as
have been enumerated above. That they were also tailors we know
from their subsequent incorporation with the Merchant Tailors and
also from the Wardrobe Accounts[108] of Edward I, in which Robinet,
the King’s tailor, is mentioned as making robes and armours and
banners.
Besides the lining of armour and the provision of padded defences
of fabric, there was a large field of employment in the covering of
armour. As may be noticed in Appendix A, this covering of helmets
seems to have been common in the first years of the fourteenth
century. There were three reasons for covering the steel head-piece
with fabric. Firstly, as Chaucer writes with regard to the mail
hauberk (page 78), to keep it from wet, the enemy of all iron and
steel work; secondly, as Roger Ascham writes of the peacock-wing
for arrows, “for gayness”; and thirdly, to prevent the glitter of
metal attracting attention.[109] In the _Treatise_ of Johan Hill,
written in 1434 (Appendix C, page 173), the covering of the armour,
especially for the legs, is ordered to be of scarlet “because his
adversarie shall not lightly espye his blode.” Helmet-bags are
mentioned in inventories, etc. In 1578 we find “steel caps with
covers” noticed in more than one will,[110] and in the Lieutenancy
Accounts for Lancashire, _temp._ Elizabeth, the archer’s dress
includes a “scull and Scottish cap to cover the same” (Fig. 46).
Several helmets in the Waffensammlungen at Vienna still show the
silk and satin coverings, and in Munich a triple-crowned burgonet
has a black velvet cover. The highly ornate Venetian sallads,
covered with crimson velvet, over which is set a gilt open-work
decoration of metal, are fairly common in collections (Plate XVI).
[Illustration: FIG. 46. Sallad with cover, from a sixteenth-century
engraving.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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