The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth centuryFfoulkes, Charles John
History
The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century
Ffoulkes, Charles John
Armor -- History; Armorers; Weapons -- History
In the preceding chapter some notice was taken of the part which
the linen armourer played in the equipment of the armed man, and it
was to him that the clothing which was worn under the armour was
entrusted. Under the heading of the “Cleaning of Armour” mention
has been made of Chaucer’s knight whose “gipoun” was “besmoturyd
with his haubergeon,” but this garment was an outer garment or
surcoat. In the age of plate armour a complete dress was worn for
legs, arms, body, and head to prevent the chafing of the armour,
which in spite of its own lining of silk, velvet, cloth, leather,
or other fabric would cause grave inconvenience, if not danger
to the wearer. Besides this reason there was also a question
of warmth, which was of importance, for in long marches and
expeditions there was no warmth in a suit of plate, in fact there
was an added cold which had to be counteracted by warm garments
worn underneath.
[Illustration: FIG. 52. Knight arming (from _Livre des Nobles
Femmes_, Bib. Nat., Paris, fourteenth century).]
In the eleventh and twelfth centuries we have not much in the
way of documentary evidence which will help us as to the clothes
worn under the armour. The Bayeux Tapestry shows us the wounded
and dead being stripped of their hauberks, under which nothing
was apparently worn (Fig. 51). It should be remembered, however,
that these hauberks were probably of quilted fabric, which
therefore did not gall the body of the wearer. The drawing from a
fourteenth-century manuscript on Fig. 52 gives some hint at the
arming-doublet, which will be noted farther on in this chapter,
and shows also the laces or points that held up the hose. Towards
the end of the fourteenth century, however, we find on the incised
brasses, which are such valuable records of the military equipment
of the period, very distinct garments represented. On the brass
to Sir John de Creke at Westley Waterless, Cambs, 1325, we see
the “cyclas” or outer surcoat, the “upper pourpoint,” of fabric,
studded with metal, “the hauberk,” and under all the “haketon”
or “gambeson” (Fig. 53). According to William de Guilleville, in
the _Pèlerinage de l’Ame_, written in the fourteenth century, the
“pourpoint” was so called because of its quiltings:--
De pontures de gambison
Pourquoi pourpoint l’appelle-t-on.
[Illustration: FIG. 53. Brass of Sir John de Creke, Westley
Waterless, Cambs, 1325.
1. Bascinet.
2. Vervelies and camail.
3. Cyclas or surcoat.
4. Upper pourpoint.
5. Hauberk.
6. Gambeson or haketon.
7. Poleynes.
8. Beinbergs or jambs.]
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