The Art of Drinking: A Historical SketchGervinus, Georg Gottfried
Philosophy
The Art of Drinking: A Historical Sketch
Gervinus, Georg Gottfried
Beer; Drinking customs; Wine and wine making
I would only here and there touch upon the botanical and industrial
culture of the grape, as many very valuable works on the subject
already exist (among others, Henderson’s “History of Ancient and
Modern Wines”), which make almost a complete literature of wine.
I shall also speak of the home of the grape only for the sake of
preserving the natural order of things, and shall touch later upon the
mythical origin of wine, or the preparation of wine. If we look for
the original country of the grape, we shall find that here, too, as in
almost every other branch of culture, the western highlands of Asia
are pointed out to us, whether we follow the fable of Father Noah,
the Nysæan Bacchus, or the researches of the naturalists. The latter
teach us that on the Canary Isles and in America the grape grows not
so much wild as in a degenerate condition; but in the southwest of
Europe, for instance the Italian woods, it is here and there found
growing really wild; that in the southeast this is still more common,
and in Asia ever on the increase. It is singular that at the Ararat,
to which Jewish tradition also points, Tournefort, in his “Journey
to the Levant,” discovered a regular workshop of the European plant,
and on the borders of transcaucasian Georgia he saw the land covered
with wild grape-vines and fruit-trees. In the Caucasus, Marshall found
the grape flourishing independently in the forest and covering whole
trees, and we see in the rough and indifferent manner in which the
inhabitants of these countries harvest and treat the grape that they
consider it a very common product. The manner in which they preserve
the wine, and the quantity they daily consume, prove the same, and this
entirely agrees with what Xenophon tells of the preservation of the
wine in cisterns. Elphinstone, in his report on Cabul, relates that
the Sultan presented him with grapes that grew without cultivation in
his country. And not only the quantities of the wild grapes in those
countries induce us to regard them as their native soil, it is also
the excellent quality of the cultivated grape in Persia. The quantity
and quality of the Persian wine opposed in this respect an effective
barrier to the laws of the Koran, which enjoined against the enjoyment
of the beverage, even in the Orient, which is so set in its religious
rites and ceremonies. Olivier preferred the grapes about Ispahan to
all he had tasted in Greece, on the islands of the Mediterranean, and
in Syria. None, he says, equals the _Kismish_, which bears a berry of
middling size, without seeds and with a thin skin. Shiraz, rich in
poets, is celebrated on account of the excellence and plenty of its
wine and its fine air, and Morier, in his “Journey through Persia,”
places the wine of Kazwin even above that of Shiraz, and the former
city is so beautifully situated in so mild a climate that the Persians
have given it the name of “Paradise.” In regard to the fruitfulness of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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