_Ordinary Port_ is a very uncleansed, fretful Wine--and experienced judges have assured us, that _the Best Port_ is rather impoverished than improved, by being kept in Bottle longer than Two[54] Years, _i. e._ supposing it to have been previously from two to four years in the Cask in this Country,--observing, that all that the outrageous advocates for "_vin passé_"--really know about it, is, that SHERRY _is Yellow_,--and PORT _is Black_,--and that if they drink enough of either of them,--it will make them Drunk. WHITE WINES, especially _Sherry_ and _Madeira_, being more perfectly fermented, and thoroughly fined before they are bottled--if kept in a cellar of uniform temperature, are not so rapidly deteriorated by Age. _The Temperature of a Good Cellar_ is nearly the same throughout the year. _Double Doors_ help to preserve this. It must be dry, and be kept as clean as possible. _The Art of preserving Wines_, is to keep them from fretting, which is done by keeping them in the same degree of heat, and careful Corking[55]. "If persons wish to preserve the fine flavour of their Wines, they ought _on no account_ to permit any Bacon, Cheese, Onions, Potatoes, or Cider, in their wine-cellars. Or, if there be any disagreeable stench in the Cellar, the wine will indubitably imbibe it; consequently, instead of being fragrant and charming to the nose and palate, it will be extremely disagreeable."--CARNELL _on Wine Making_, 8vo. 1814, p. 124. See also _Manuel du Sommelier, par A. Jullien_, Paris, 1817. That MADEIRA (if properly matured before) improves in quality by being carried to the _East Indies_ and back, by which Voyage it loses from 8 to 10 Gallons,--or to the _West_, by which about 5 are wasted[56],--however these round-about manœuvres may tickle the fancy of those folks who cannot relish any thing that is not far-fetched, dear-bought, and hard to be had, and to whom rarity is the "_sine qua non_" of recommendation--it is one of those inconvenient prejudices, from which common sense preserve us!