[102] _Mailyeis_--network. [103] _Purfillit_--furbelowed. [104] _Fassoun_--address, politeness. [105] _Tholl_--endure. [106] _Having_--behaviour. [107] _Patelet_--run. [108] _Sickernes_--steadfastness. CHAPTER XIV. NEEDLEWORK IN COSTUME.--PART II. "And the short French breeches make such a comelie vesture that, except it were a dog in a doublet, you shall not see anie so disguised as are my countriemen of England." Holinshed. "Out from the Gadis to the eastern morne, Not one but holds his native state forlorne. When comelie striplings wish it were their chance For Cenis' distaffe to exchange their lance; And weare curl'd periwigs, and chalk their face, And still are poring on their pocket glasse; Tyr'd with pinn'd ruffs, and fans, and partlet strips, And buskes and verdingales about their hips: And tread on corked stilts a prisoner's pace." Bp. Joseph Hall. "They brought in fashions strange and new, With golden garments bright; The farthingale and mighty ruff, With gowns of rich delight." A Warning-Piece to England. The queen (Anne Neville) of Richard III. seems to have been somewhat more regally accoutred than those of her royal predecessors to whom we referred in the last chapter. Among "the stuff delivered to the queen at her coronation are twenty-seven yards of white cloth of gold for a kirtle and train, and a mantle of the same, richly furred with ermine. This was the dress in which she rode in her litter from the Tower to the palace of Westminster. This was an age of long trains, and the length was regulated by the rank of the wearer; Anne, for her whole purple velvet suit, had fifty-six yards. From the entries of scarlet cloth given to the nobility for mantles on this occasion, we find that duchesses had thirteen yards, countesses ten, and baronesses eight." The costume of Henry VII.'s day differed little from that of Edward IV., except in the use of shirts bordered with lace and richly trimmed with ornamental needlework, which continued a long time in vogue amongst the nobility and gentry.